The Theory and Practice of BrewingCombrune, Michael
Science
The Theory and Practice of Brewing
Combrune, Michael
Brewing
From the above-related process we are taught, that nature, in forming
wines, is not confined to a certain fixed number of degrees, but
admits, for this act, of a considerable latitude, according to the
extent of which the wines vary in taste and properties; and that she
affects an equality of heat in each period of vegetation; from whence
the brewer is taught, if he form his malt-liquors with four mashes,
as in the autumn and spring the vine is impressed with heats nearly
uniform, so ought his two first mashes to be; the third, in imitation
of the high heat of summer, should be much hotter, and the heat of his
last mash the same with this; and this general rule has been found
universally true, for beers expected to preserve themselves sound a
sufficient time; and admits but of a proportional variation, when fewer
or more mashes are employed, as the degrees of heat denominating the
constituent parts of the grain, must be applied in proportion to the
quantity of water used to each mash; but in malt liquors speedily to
be drank, or when we deviate greatly from the more perfect productions
of nature, we are then compelled to swerve from her rules; a practice
never profitable, and which nothing but necessity can justify.
The nature of the soil proper for the vine, might, in another work,
be a very useful enquiry. It will be sufficient here, barely to hint
at the effect, which lixivial soils produce in musts. The Portugueze,
when they discovered the Island of Madeira in 1420, set fire to the
forests, with which it was totally covered. It continued to burn for
the space of seven years, after which the land was found extremely
fruitful, and yielding such wines, as, at present, we have from thence,
though in greater plenty. It is very difficult to fine these wines,
and, though the climate of this island is more temperate than that of
the Canaries, the wines are obliged to be carried to the Indies and the
warmer parts of the globe, to be purged, shook, and attenuated, before
they can arrive to an equal degree of fineness with other wines; were
the Portugueze acquainted with what may be termed the artificial method
of exciting periodical fermentation, much or the whole of this trouble
might be avoided. Hence we see, that soils impregnated with alkaline
salts will produce musts able to support themselves longer, and to
resist acidity more, than other soils, under the same degree of heat.
Grapes have the same constituent parts as other vegetables. The
difference between them, as to their tastes and properties, consists in
the parts being mixed in different proportions. This arises, either
from their absorbent vessels more readily attracting some juices than
others, or from their preparing them otherwise, under different heats
and in different soils.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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