United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs
I left the description of the journey when in the desert, and now
return there. As the line enters the State of Arizona it begins to
descend. It had ascended previously, which had made the heat
bearable. But a few hours of descent made a woful change. Coats,
waistcoats were discarded by the men, while the female passengers
followed suit as far as they could. No use! we all gasped and panted
and used many pocket-handkerchiefs. The temperature rose higher and
higher, and the night was the worst, for we were then at the lowest
point. Between Tucson and Yuma the heat was simply infernal. I
believe this tract is the bed of what, ages ago, was an inland sea;
anyhow it had all the appearance of it, and I was later told
geologists thought so too. It is, to say the least, very likely, for
Yuma, I heard, is several hundred feet below sea-level. The latitude
is 32½° north, a warm latitude in any case, but with desert for
hundreds of miles all round, with perhaps as low an elevation as
exists on earth, shut in on all sides so that not a breath of air can
get at it, what wonder that Yuma and all about there is hot? I have
experienced great heat in many parts of the world, but Suez, the Red
Sea, the hottest parts of India, are a joke to what I felt there. I
have since heard it has the reputation of being the hottest place on
earth!
Between Yuma and the head of the Gulf of California is about eighty
miles. It would not therefore be difficult to let the water of the
ocean into this dry bed, and make a large sea there, the same as they
propose to do in Northern Africa.
Yuma is on the boundary-line between the States of Arizona and
California, but it is some six hours further west by rail ere you
leave this supposed dry sea bed and begin to ascend. California had
been painted to me in such bright colours, both in England and
America, I could not, when daylight came the following morning, and
there was still nothing but desert, believe we were really there. But
so it was. We ascended for some hours, and the climate bettered as
we did so, until at last we could breathe once more, but the desert
was still there, and it was not till we came near Los Angeles, which
is some 150 miles beyond Yuma, that we began to encounter vegetation.
Los Angeles (the Angels) was so named by the Spaniards who founded
it. It is on the barren Pacific coast alluded to, but the soil is of
desert kind number two, that is, it has vitality in it, and water
makes it fertile. Thus by artificial means (for of rain there is very
little) the environs of the town are highly cultivated. Fruit is the
main product. The grapes are magnificent, so are the peaches, in
appearance at least, but they lack flavour. This defect is common to
that fruit all over California; but I need not enumerate each kind of
fruit grown, all that thrives both in temperate and semi-tropical
regions is found there, and, the peaches excepted, all first rate of
their kinds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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