One of my friends lately gave me a curious illustration of the trade in heads. His father wanted to purchase one of the dried heads, but did not approve of any that were brought for sale, on the ground that the tattoo was poor, and was not a good example of the skill of the native artists. The chief allowed the force of the argument, and, pointing to a number of his people who had come on board, he turned to the intending purchaser, saying, “Choose which of these heads you like best, and when you come back I will take care to have it dried and ready for your acceptance.” As may be imagined, this speech put an abrupt end to all head purchasing, and gave an unexpected insight into the mysteries of trading as conducted by savage nations. CHAPTER LXXX. NEW ZEALAND--_Continued_. DRESS AND ORNAMENTS. THE “MATS” OF THE NEW ZEALANDERS -- THE MATERIAL OF WHICH THEY ARE MADE -- THE NEW ZEALAND FLAX, OR PHORMIUM -- MODE OF MAKING THE MATS -- VARIOUS KINDS OF MATS -- THE RAIN MAT AND ITS USES -- THE OPEN-WORKED MAT -- THE DIFFERENT ORNAMENTS OF THE MAT: STRINGS AND TAGS, SCARLET TUFTS AND BORDERS -- WAR CLOAKS OF THE CHIEFS -- THE DOGS’-HAIR MAT -- THE CHIEF PARÁTENE IN HIS CLOAK -- MODE OF MAKING THE WAR CLOAKS -- BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE CHIEF -- AMUSING INSTANCE OF VANITY IN A CHIEF -- SUBSTITUTION OF THE BLANKET AND ITS ATTENDANT EVILS -- ORNAMENTS OF THE NEW ZEALANDER’S HEAD -- FEATHERS, AND FEATHER BOXES -- VARIOUS DECORATIONS OF GREEN JADE -- TIKIS AND EAR-RINGS -- A REMARKABLE AMULET -- THE SHARK’S TOOTH -- MODES OF DRESSING THE HAIR -- HAIR-CUTTING AND SHAVING -- A PRIMITIVE RAZOR. We now come to the costume of the New Zealanders. This is of a rather remarkable character, and may be characterized by the generic title of mat, with the exception of the belt which has just been described. The costume of the New Zealander consists of a square or oblong mat, varying considerably in size, though always made on the same principle. In this mat the natives envelop themselves after a very curious fashion, generally muffling themselves up to the neck, and often throwing the folds round them after the fashion of a conventional stage villain. These mats are of various textures, and differ as much in excellence and value as do the fabrics of more civilized lands. The material is, however, the same in all cases, and even the mode of wearing the garment, the value being estimated by the fineness of the material, the amount of labor bestowed upon it, and the ornaments introduced into it. The material of which the mats are made is the so-called New Zealand “flax,” scientifically known by the name of _Phormium tenax_. It belongs to the natural family of the Liliaceæ and the tribe Asparagaceæ. The plant has a number of showy yellow flowers arranged on a tall branch-panicle, and a number of straightish leaves, all starting from the root, and being five or six feet long, and not more than two inches wide at the broadest part.