The Way of Martha and the Way of Mary — John Shaqi
The Way of Martha and the Way of MaryGraham, Stephen
Religion
The Way of Martha and the Way of Mary
Graham, Stephen
National characteristics, Russian; Russia -- Religion
We pass the Belgian frontier at three in the morning near Namur, and the
German at Herbesthal in the dim glimmering before dawn. The world that
becomes visible as the sun rises is the ordered world of the Germans.
Everything is prim, everything is as it should be; the fields are
symmetrical, the palings are vertical and in good repair, the manure
heaps are compact; where houses are being pulled down or set up there is
no disorder whatever; nothing is scattered about, everything is
collected and numbered. At the little stations we pass through, the
station-master in brilliant red and blue is standing erect at that point
on the platform that it is his duty to occupy. On the train a woman in
uniform has appeared. She has put thirty or forty little tablets of soap
and two dozen hand-towels into the lavatory; she has picked up the bits
of paper that lay scattered in the corridor all night; she has washed
everything in the lavatory; put water in the cistern and boiled water in
the carafe. The conductor, a well-groomed military man, has come and
allotted us definitely numbered seats in the carriages and has seen that
our respective hand-luggage occupies just that space in the rack which
is above our numbered seats.
At Cologne there are just four minutes to cross the subway and get into
the Berlin express. My porter—luggage-dragger, as the precise Germans
call him—takes me across at a run and puts me in the train, and my
registered box of books and papers and what-not is not allowed to miss
the connexion. I hardly sit down in the speckless third-class carriage
of the real German train before the whistle goes and we slip past the
great black piles of Cologne Cathedral in the background. All day long
we tear over Germany at sixty miles an hour to Berlin.
At Paris I had registered my box to the Charlottenburg Station of
Berlin, but to my dismay the train did not stop there. I had only ten
minutes in which to change francs to marks, get my ticket to the Russian
frontier, have my luggage weighed and registered, and get into the
train. And I do not speak German, but the Germans understood. I was put
down at Zoological Gardens Station. My porter understood the situation
at once, ran me along to some stairs, and pointed down them. I went
down; he went “to expedite my baggage,” so I understood. I took my
ticket, and in doing so offered the girl in the booking-office about six
more marks than was necessary. She pushed back the superfluous silver
without a smile. Turning round, I saw my trunk reposing on the weighing
machine. My porter pointed to the registration window. I paid two marks
and obtained my receipt and went up the stairs to the platform for the
Russian train, and had two minutes to spare.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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