The Wigmaker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: An Account of His Barbering, Hair-dressing, & Peruke-Making Services, & Some Remarks on Wigs of Various Styles.Bullock, Thomas K.
History
The Wigmaker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: An Account of His Barbering, Hair-dressing, & Peruke-Making Services, & Some Remarks on Wigs of Various Styles.
Bullock, Thomas K.
Wigmakers; Wigs -- History
to ecclesiastical perukes he gives a certain demure, sanctified air;
he confers on the tye-wigs of the law an appearance of great sagacity
and deep penetration; on those of the faculty of physick he casts a
solemnity and gravity that seems equal to the profoundest knowledge.
His military smarts ... [give] the wearer a most war-like fierceness.
As for color, any style might be made up in any of the several colors
favored for wigs: black, white, grizzle (an iron-gray mixture of black
and white hair), brown, and flaxen are mentioned most often in surviving
accounts. Less popular shades included milk white, light natural,
yellowish, pale, chestnut, auburn, piss-burnt, and gray. Red was deemed
a “disagreeable colour” for hair and was rarely if ever used in wigs.
The styles here shown were all popular at some time during the
eighteenth century, though perhaps some of them were worn more often in
England and France than in the colonies. On the other hand, a popular
colonial style, the “Albemarle” wig, is not in our catalogue because
nothing has been found to tell what it looked like.
[Illustration: Bob wig.]
No eighteenth-century illustration of a bob wig, so labeled, has been
found. This picture, from Diderot’s _Encyclopedia_ (like all the others
in this group) shows a “bonnet” or “short wig.” The brown dress bob
favored by so many of Edward Charlton’s customers must have been very
similar. A plain bob presumably had fewer curls, but neither it nor the
dress bob would have had any queue or hanging side curls.
[Illustration: Brigadier wig.]
This “brigadier wig” shows what a few of Charlton’s patrons ordered from
him. It was known also as a major wig and a military wig. The “tye wig”
mentioned in Charlton’s accounts must have looked very much like this
(again we lack any clear contemporary illustration) except that it had
more than two curls tied at the nape of the neck.
[Illustration: Queue wig]
What Charlton called a “queue wig” might have been any wig with a
tail—or even with two, like this double pigtail. The tails were usually
bound tightly with black ribbon, though sailors used leather. A single
queue, braided but not bound, with a large bow at the top and a small
bow at the bottom, was known as a “Ramillies wig” after the battle at
that place (1706). The wearer of a Ramillies often doubled the end of
the queue back up to the wig and held it with a comb or ribbon.
[Illustration: Bag wig]
In the “bag wig” the long hair at the back was simply tied inside a
black taffeta bag, usually with a rosette of black ribbon for
decoration. In England and France this style, like so many others, was
carried to such an extreme that the bag eventually covered the wearer’s
entire shoulders. The exaggeration at least had the virtue of protecting
his clothing from the pomade and powder of the wig. It was going out of
fashion in Virginia by Charlton’s time. Note the small strap and buckle
on the wig.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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