The Wigmaker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: An Account of His Barbering, Hair-dressing, & Peruke-Making Services, & Some Remarks on Wigs of Various Styles. — John Shaqi
The Wigmaker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: An Account of His Barbering, Hair-dressing, & Peruke-Making Services, & Some Remarks on Wigs of Various Styles.Bullock, Thomas K.
History
The Wigmaker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: An Account of His Barbering, Hair-dressing, & Peruke-Making Services, & Some Remarks on Wigs of Various Styles.
Bullock, Thomas K.
Wigmakers; Wigs -- History
(6) _Sewing the Strip of Weft to the Caul_—Following his pattern for
length of rows and length of hair, the wigmaker now sews to the caul the
strips of weft he has previously woven, using a simple straight stitch.
Except for the rows framing the face, which start at the front edge and
go backwards, the rows are sewn beginning at the bottom and back and
working upward and forward. Rows of short fine hair are sewn very close
together, the rest in parallel rows a quarter of an inch apart.
Different styles, of course, may require a particular sequence of sewing
the proper combination of short, long, curled, straight, or horsehair
tresses to achieve the desired result.
[Illustration: _Here are a group of wig blocks, one on an adjustable
stand for easy pinning of the caul, the others with cauls in various
stages of completion. Wigs not in use at the time or being taken on
the owner’s travels were kept or carried in wig boxes like that
shown._ GARSAULT]
(7) _Finishing and Dressing the Wig_—As the words imply, these processes
call for the deft use of comb, fingers, curling iron, and scissors to
trim and shape each curl and each bunch of straight hair to graceful
perfection. Finally, the wigmaker adds a rosette, a bag, or ribbons as
the style demands, and pomade, powder, and perfume to the customer’s
desire. The powder, incidentally, may be had in various colors and
serves to maintain the wig in the proper shade or tint of brown, black,
gray, or white. In fact, blue powder was not unknown.
_STYLES AND PRICES_
If brown dress bob wigs at 43 shillings each were by far the most
popular of Edward Charlton’s products—he sold sixty in one year—they
were by no means the only style he made. Perukes not only came in almost
endless variety; their prices differed likewise. Even wigs of the same
style from the same maker could vary widely in price (according to the
kind and quality of materials, care in workmanship, etc.) as the
accompanying advertisement shows.
Clendinning’s prices were in the same range as those charged by
Williamsburg wigmakers through most of the eighteenth century. It is
worth remark that Charlton’s price for a brown dress bob wig was the
same in 1770 as Andrew Anderson had charged in 1752 and as Jean Pasteur
had received in 1726, though the earlier models were probably more
elaborate than Charlton made.
From prices charged for various articles of clothing at the same period,
it appears that a man could outfit himself with hat, coat, shirt,
breeches, hose, and shoes for about what his wig would cost him. Put
another way, a suitably cheap wig might easily cost a journeyman his
wages for two to three weeks, while a wealthy planter might pay nearly
as much for one “Grisell Tye Wig” as a servant’s board cost for a year.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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