Three textile raw materials and their manufactureInternational Acceptance Bank
Science
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture
International Acceptance Bank
Textile fabrics; Textile fibers; Textile industry
The next step in the production of silk is called reeling, and for
this purpose the modern filature has been developed. The actual
existence of reeling machines is by no means modern, however, for it
is a well-known fact that the Chinese knew how to use raw silk as
far back as 5000 years ago. Old prints dating back 3000 years show
that the hand “reelers” then in use differed little in principle from
the highly developed filatures of today. Although China knew how to
reel and twist silk for several thousand years, it was only in the
third, fourth, and fifth centuries A. D. that other countries, such
as Japan and Eastern Europe, took it up. The first filatures were,
of course, extremely simple, operated entirely by hand, and produced
a very coarse thread. Although a little progress was made during
the Middle Ages, the turning point came in 1750 when Vaucanson, a
French engineer, invented the first real filature—which combined
several reelers, giving the whole process more speed and turning out
a product of considerably better quality. This marked the beginning
of Europe’s interest in what had so long been an exclusively
Oriental industry, and from then on the French, Italians and Spanish
in particular took up the study of sericulture and the reeling and
manufacturing process. The result was to put the industry on a
scientific basis which it had never reached in the East.
[Illustration: _The Reeling Basins_]
2. PREPARING TO REEL
[Sidenote: “_Stoving_”]
The reeling process is the first step in which machinery plays
an important part. When the cocoons are ready they must first be
submitted to the “stoving” process, or stifling, in which they are
exposed to heat sufficient to kill the chrysalis inside. This is
followed by further drying, after which the cocoons are shipped in
bags to the filatures and may be kept indefinitely without injuring
the filament.
[Sidenote: “_Beating_”]
[Sidenote: _Waste Material_]
As a preliminary to reeling, the cocoons are immersed in boiling
water to soften the gum that holds the fibre together. While in
the water they are brushed with a coarse brush to remove the heavy
outer strands of the cocoon—a process called “beating.” These outer
strands are usually too harsh and broken to be reeled, but are
afterwards utilized as so-called waste which is used for spun-silk
manufacture.[4] This applies also to the innermost layers of the
cocoon. About one-half of the thread on a cocoon actually finds its
way into thrown silk. The remainder is “waste.” When, by brushing,
the true threads are reached it is possible to start reeling, and
barring occasional breaks these threads are continuous all the way
down to the chrysalis.
[4] See Chapter IV. 2.
3. MODERN REELING METHODS
[Sidenote: _Reeling Basins_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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