Three textile raw materials and their manufactureInternational Acceptance Bank
Science
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture
International Acceptance Bank
Textile fabrics; Textile fibers; Textile industry
While being reeled the cocoons are floated in basins of very hot
water, each basin feeding a reeling machine. A single cocoon strand
is too fine to use commercially, so several are taken at a time,
varying from three to seven or eight according to the size of thread
desired. The size used in this country most extensively is known as
13/15 deniers and is reeled from six or seven cocoons. During the
reeling the water is kept at about 60° C., but if the cocoons are
very dry a higher temperature is required. A heavy smoke issues from
the basins and not only humidifies the room but also penetrates the
silk, rendering it very gummy and hard. This is overcome by the use
of steam-heated tubes running over and around the machines.
Each reeling machine and basin is in charge of a girl who is
responsible for its operation and for the reeling of thread of
correct size. She must keep careful watch that the filament comes off
the cocoons steadily and that all breaks are immediately taken care
of, exhausted cocoons being replaced by new ones at the proper time.
In many filatures each girl is charged with so many cocoons and must
turn in a proportionate amount of reeled silk at the end of the day.
[Sidenote: _Twisting_]
[Sidenote: _Human Element_]
The twisting operation is an important part of the reeling process,
for the raw silk threads, being composed of parallel cocoon
filaments, cohering only by their natural gum, would, unless twisted,
mat up and become unworkable. Various methods are used to obtain
this torque, the general idea in each case being to run the separate
cocoon threads through small rings or eyes and then unite them in one
thread large enough to reel. In spite of the many mechanical devices
and improvements brought out in the last few years, the success
of the reeling operation still is dependent on the reeling girl’s
ability and care. It is particularly important that she be able to
judge the number of cocoons of a certain size and texture needed to
make a thread of the required denier.
[Illustration: _Rereeling Room_]
[Sidenote: _Testing the Skeins_]
[Sidenote: _Color of Raw Silk_]
The raw silk is reeled on travellers in hanks known as skeins and
varying from 50 to 100 grams in weight, which are taken off by the
reeling girl and the ends of the thread tied up to facilitate the
work at the mill. Before leaving the filature it is also subjected
to critical tests and examinations for size, winding, cleanliness,
irregularities, etc. The color of raw silk as it comes off the
cocoon and is reeled into skeins is either white or yellow, though
some sorts have a brownish or greenish tinge. Tussah silks have a
brownish-yellow color. The coloring matter in the cultivated silks is
only in the gum and boils out with it, but the color in the tussah is
in the fibre, rendering it very difficult to bleach.
[Illustration: _“Books” of Raw Silk Skeins_]
[Sidenote: _Reeling Wild Silk_]
[Sidenote: _Waste Silk_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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