Off to Moscow at last, the city of our dreams! I have not told one
half of our adventures in Petrograd. It is not possible to do so. The
tour of the great Putiloff Works was of enormous interest, and may
be referred to in a later part of the narrative. Our visit to the
gloomy fortress of St. Peter and St. Paul at midnight had a mournful
fascination for those who have steeped themselves in the lore of the
martyrs of the Revolution. The old keeper of the cells is still there,
impassive and unresponsive as a man of such responsibilities might well
be, as quietly content to serve the new order as the old, human enough
to be pleased that no one occupied his quarters at the time of our
visit. We saw the large, damp, gloomy cells, twice as big as the cells
of an English prison, whose sole claim to comfort lay in the provision
in each cell of running water and a sanitary convenience. These things
were not, of course, in the punishment cells, which were entirely dark
and partly under water. The high-walled, narrow gully, where prisoners
were taken to be shot, from which no sound could penetrate to the
outer world, sent thrills of cold horror down our backs. The ingenious
methods of torture made us physically sick. Altogether it was a
gruesome experience, unrelieved of its sad associations by the humorous
writings on the wall of British prisoners temporarily incarcerated on
suspicion of promoting counter-revolutionary activity.
Off to Moscow! The city of golden domes and spires! So different from
Peter the Great’s city of the marshes, new and splendid though that is,
with the broad Neva to add to its beauty.
The same comfortable train took us there in thirteen hours. Usually it
takes longer; but orders had come through that we must be in Moscow
by noon the day following, and we were there to a minute. The crowds
which met us in the railway station and lined the approaches to the
station beggar description, both for their size and the warmth of
their reception. Here was an open-hearted, generous lot of people, to
whom we felt drawn from the very first minute. It did not take long
to sense a difference between these folk and those we had just left.
There was less of strain and torment here, more of human jolliness
and kindliness; less of the burning fever of revolution, more of its
constructive hope.
The representatives of the Soviets and the Trade Unions met us. The
bands played merrily, the flags and banners waved briskly and gleamed
brightly. The usual speeches of welcome were made and properly
acknowledged. And then we left in the fleet of motor-cars provided for
us to the large and commodious Hotel Delavoy Dvor, a whole floor of
which had been devoted to our use. Special passes were handed to us
at the station which admitted us to all the public buildings of the
Government, and we prepared ourselves for a useful and strenuous time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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