The hotel in which we were lodged was a modern business men’s place
taken over by the Government with the rest of Moscow’s great public
buildings. It stands at the entry to a large square and is within a
good stone’s throw of the Kremlin. Our quarters were very comfortable,
almost luxurious, with substantial furnishings and good beds; but
alas for the scriptural injunction: “Thou shalt not be afraid for the
terror by night nor for the pestilence that walketh in darkness!” A
new “Red Army” left its trail of blood along our pillows, one which,
after the first night, drove us from our beds to the refuge of the
more comfortable sofas. I give my word, there are more crawling things
in that Moscow hotel than I had imagined were contained in the whole
universe! Not in ones, nor twos, but in battalions, they came, making
the night hideous. Soon their slain bodies began to make effective
patterns upon the wall-paper; but they had the advantage of numbers and
we were compelled to yield to superior forces, and give up the attempt
to annihilate them.
Moscow is indeed the real Russian city, semi-oriental in type. The
number of its churches is amazing, and their vari-coloured domes and
cupolas glittered beautifully in the hot, bright sun. The streets
were in fairly good condition, and were much cleaner than we had been
led to expect, or than the streets of some other towns which were
visited. The people here looked under-nourished, as in Petrograd, but
there was more spring in their gait, less misery in their mien. Sober,
stolid, unemotional, indifferent, they spent little time in looking at
us beyond the tops of our boots, which in their shockingly bootless
condition were the things which interested them most. Sometimes
they frowned at our cars when these scattered dust all over them or
threatened to run them down.
The open markets of Moscow present a very interesting spectacle.
Private trading has not been abolished. It has only been driven into
the streets. Almost all the shops have been closed; all the big ones.
The lively appearance of the streets in most big cities is due to the
brightly dressed shop-windows, displaying tempting stores of goods of
all sorts. All this side of life has vanished. There are the Soviet
Stores, the Co-operative Stores and the displays of peasant arts and
crafts; but these present no attractive appearance and the goods
supplied tend towards standardisation, the thing which robs shopping of
half its joys. Besides these there are small shops selling those goods
which are not Government monopolies, such small wares as bootlaces,
pins; certain fruits and flowers; agricultural products such as eggs,
milk, potatoes, carrots, green vegetables and pork. Bread, both black
and white, is on sale, the black bread at 400 roubles and the white at
1000 roubles a pound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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