On the beautiful sea-trip from Stockholm to Reval we discussed with
one another the possibilities of our excursion. Our little Swedish
ship hugged the coast of Finland to avoid the many thousands of mines
said to be loose upon the waters between Sweden and Esthonia, and the
loveliness of a myriad wooded islands amongst which we threaded our way
absorbed the best part of our interest until the open sea was reached.
“I wonder if we shall be allowed perfect freedom of action,” murmured
one of our number. “What shall we do if we find ourselves a sort of
Cook’s tourist party or the Royal Family?”
One was quite sure that, although we might be the guests of the
Government, we should be allowed to go where we liked and do what we
pleased. Another thought we should see as little as the Royal Family
sees when it takes an excursion amongst the people. A third welcomed
the idea of a conducted party because of the language difficulty. A
fourth expressed the view that we should ask for our passports and
return home at once if we were placed under any kind of restraint. It
was finally decided that we should wait and see!
After thirty hours of pleasant sailing, four only in the open sea, we
entered the harbour at Reval in a half-moon, just in time to see the
last rays of light from the setting sun make resplendent the gilded
domes of the churches. Town and harbour appeared quaint and exquisite
in the fading evening light, and the frank voices of the forty or fifty
Esthonian Socialists who met us robbed the strangeness of its slight
discomfort. These pleasant friends were representative of all the
various Socialist sections in Reval--Left, Right and Centre; and whilst
they turned cold looks on one another, they united in warmth of welcome
to us. Before we left the town we had supped with the Right and dined
with the Left and insisted on taking an indiscriminate pleasure with
all at the concert which the great Chaliapine gave that same evening in
the big public hall of the city.
In the Hotel Petrograd, in Reval, sits Gowkovsky, the Bolshevik
representative, through whose competent hands pass all communications
between Russia and the rest of Europe. He is a short man with brown
beard and kind, shrewd eyes and very pleasant manner. He spread a royal
banquet for us which included amongst its provisions the prohibited
vodka, bidding us drink to the social revolution in a beverage which
the Revolutionary Government, following the example of the Czar, has
had the wisdom to forbid. The properties of this fiery drink must be of
a very peculiar character, for one of the Delegates, who is not a total
abstainer, has since commended the late Czar’s ordinance abolishing the
drink traffic and has publicly declared that the coming Revolution in
Great Britain will have to be accompanied by the total prohibition of
strong drink.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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