Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
The most monotonous of all the dances was that with which some Turkish
officials, who had fixed their quarters at the further end of the
mountain neck, solaced themselves. Not that they danced themselves! they
were far too lazy and phlegmatic to do that; but they impressed into
their service a succession of rayah boys, who in turn danced long _pas
seuls_ before their lords and masters. Without leaving what we may call
his pedestal, a boy kept treading the ground to the weary see-sawing
music, and trying to make every muscle and limb quiver like a jelly.
Then, after performing this operation for a good ten minutes, with his
face towards his Turkish admirers, he slowly turned round on his pivot
and danced—if such tremulous distortion could be called dancing!—for
an equal space of time, with his back to the spectators, and then he
gradually swerved round again as if he were roasting before a slow
fire, and was from time to time adjusted by a turnspit! But the Turks,
comfortably squatted on carpets strewn over the turf, gazed gravely on by
the hour together, and seemed to enjoy the spectacle.
We heard much playing of ghuzlas and double pipes and flutes, and
much vocal accompaniment with lyric songs and long epic ballads. The
instruments, with the exception of the ghuzla, were the same as the
Croatian already described, and the ghuzla itself resembled a tamburitza
with three strings and bow in place of fingers; but the playing on them
struck me as slightly better than what we had heard at Siszek. The metre
was as curious and as much a relic of an older world as the instruments
whose Arcadian affinities have been already touched on. One of the many
minstrels was enchanting an audience of Bosniac maidens with a lyric,
whose measure, unless my ears deceived me, was identical with that of
Anacreon’s song beginning,
λέγουσω αΐ γυναῖκες,
Ἀνακρεων γέρων εἶ.
And it was strange and impressive, with the air merry with tree-crickets
from the foliage around, to catch, as it, seemed, the cadence of that
exquisite ode in which the Teian bard paid his homage to the same cicadas!
μακαρίζονμέν σε τέττιξ,
ὅτι δενδρέων ἐπ’ ἄκρων
ὀλίγην δρόσον πεπωκὼς,
βασιλεὺς ὅπως ἀείδεις.
But the songs, though interesting, were not beautiful, and, to tell the
truth, were often more like a succession of street-cries than any other
sound, human or divine! This was mainly owing to what was the chief
peculiarity of the singing—the long stress, namely, laid by the voice on
the last syllable or the last trochee, insomuch that success in a singer
seemed to lie in the ability of keeping on at the concluding howl longer
than his fellows.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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