Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917 — John Shaqi
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
Fifty miles from land the sea assumes a different aspect through the fresh
water of the great Barito flowing on the surface. Its red hue is produced
by particles of soil brought from the inland of Borneo. In the beginning
of December I arrived at Bandjermasin, the principal town in Dutch Borneo,
inhabited for the most part by Malays and Chinese. It is the seat of the
Resident of the vast South and Eastern Division and has a garrison. The
sea loudly announces its presence here, the tide overflowing much of the
low ground, hence the Malay name, _bandjir_ = overflow, _másin_ = salt
water. Large clumps of a peculiar water-plant float on the river in
Bandjermasin in great numbers, passing downward with the current, upward
with the tide, producing a singular, but pleasing sight. It is originally
a native of America and has attractive light-blue flowers, but multiplies
to such an extent that the growth finally may interfere with traffic. In
India I saw a lagoon completely choked with it.
There is one hotel where the table is fair and the beds are clean, but
blankets are considered unnecessary, and only sheets are provided. The
climate was not as hot as I expected, nights and mornings being
surprisingly cool. Early in July of the following year the morning
temperature was about 73° F. (23° C). Malaria is rare here, but there are
frequent indications of beri-beri.
Friends invited me to go on an excursion to a small island, Kambang, where
there are a number of monkeys to whom Malays who desire children sacrifice
food. On our arrival the animals came to meet us in a way that was almost
uncanny, running like big rats in the tall grass on the muddy beach. Many
remnants of sacrificial offerings were strewn about.
Two years later I was again in Bandjermasin, when an elderly American and
his wife appeared upon the scene-tourists, by the way, being very unusual
here. At the breakfast table they asked a young Dutchman the whereabouts
of the church and museum, and he replied that he did not think there was
either in the town. As a matter of fact there is a small wooden Dutch
church hidden away in a back street. Moreover, in 1914 the Resident, who
at that time was Mr. L.F.J. Rijckmans, had a house built, in Malay style
of architecture, for the safekeeping of Bornean industrial and
ethnological objects which had been on view at the exhibition at Samarang
in Java, thus forming the nucleus of a museum which at some future time
may be successfully developed. The Kahayan Dayaks, not far away to the
north, make exquisite cigar-cases from rattan, while the Bugis weave
attractive cotton goods, resembling silk, with an original and pleasing
colour combination.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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