Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917 — John Shaqi
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
The Europeans have a lawn-tennis court where they usually play every
afternoon. In Bandjermasin is the headquarters of a German missionary
society whose activities are confined mainly to the Kahayan River. They
are Protestants and worked for a great number of years without making any
noteworthy impression on the natives, but of late years they have been
more successful. Catholics, who came later, have a station on the Mahakam
River. The government wisely has separated Protestant and Catholic
missionary activities, restricting the former to the southern part of the
country, the latter to the northern.
There is no difficulty about getting up along the east coast northward as
far as the Bulungan, which was my immediate aim. The Royal Dutch Packet
Boat Company adheres to a schedule of regular fortnightly steamship
connection. On the way a stop is made at Balik Papan, the great
oil-producing centre, with its numerous and well-appointed tanks and modern
equipment, reminding one of a thriving town in America. One of the doctors
in this prosperous place told me that his two children of four and six
years enjoyed excellent health. Dysentery was prevalent among the coolies,
and occasionally cases of malaria occurred, but malaria is found even in
Holland, he added.
As we sailed up the Kutei River in the early morning, approaching
Samarinda, an attractive scene presented itself. Absolute calm and peace
reigned, a slight morning mist rising here and there before us and giving
a touch of charm to the vista of modest white houses that stretched along
the beach in their tropical surroundings. Samarinda lies almost on the
equator, but nights and mornings are always cool, even to a greater degree
than in Bandjermasin. Northeast Borneo and North Celebes have a
comparatively cool climate, but from Samarinda southward it is warmer. I
called on the assistant Resident, in whose office a beautiful blue
water-rail, with a red head, walked unconcernedly about. He advised me that
this was the worst time for travelling, when the northwest monsoons, which
are accompanied by much rain, are blowing.
The peace and contentment among the natives here, mostly Malays, impresses
one favourably. They are all very fond of their children and take good
care of them. The crying of children is a sound that is rarely heard. It
was my fortune to travel over two years in the Dutch Indies; it is
gratifying to state that during that time I never saw a native drunk, cit
her in Java or Borneo. My visits did not extend to the Muruts in the north
of Borneo, who are known to indulge excessively in native rice brandy. Nor
was I present at any harvest feast, but according to reliable report,
"strong drink is seldom or never abused" by the tribes of Borneo. The
Muruts and the Ibans are the exceptions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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