Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and MadagascarHawkins, F. H.
Religion
Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and Madagascar
Hawkins, F. H.
London Missionary Society -- History; Missions -- Madagascar; Missions -- South Africa; Missions -- Zambia
A short description of the visit to Ganyesa will serve to illustrate
one’s experience at many a country out-station in Bechuanaland and
Matebeleland. I started from Vryburg at 7.10 and reached Ganyesa at
4.30, after out-spanning twice. We camped for the night on an open
common, in the middle of a large Native Reserve, close to an ox-waggon
which had brought two other missionaries, Mr. Helm and Mr. Haydon
Lewis, to the place. On all sides stretched the illimitable veldt.
There were very few trees, but almost all around the sky-line was
broken by the conical thatched roofs of the Native huts. Close at
hand were to be seen emaciated oxen returning from the almost dry
watering-places in charge of little black herd-boys, who were nearly
naked, their bodies glistening like polished ebony, and having an
appearance which suggested that they had recently been black-leaded,
and presenting a great contrast with the white of their eyes and of
their perfect teeth. After my arrival I was visited by the schoolmaster
and the deacons, and afterwards attended a concert in the Church,
organised to raise funds to help to send a teacher to Tiger Kloof.
The price of a ticket for the concert was 6d. The night was hot, and
the Church was packed. In spite of the almost overpowering heat the
doors and windows were kept closed, in order that the crowd outside
should not enjoy the music for which they had not paid! The atmosphere
within was beyond description. Evening meetings are almost unknown
in Bechuanaland. Some antique lamps had been requisitioned, and the
air was laden with the pungent smell of the lamp oil. The “Bouquet
d’Afrique” was also strongly in evidence. The audience afforded a
picturesque scene in the dim lamp light. Most of the women wore highly
coloured head-dresses, and with their numerous babies sat on the floor,
which was made of a mixture of sand and cow-dung. The rest of their
dress was remarkable for its colour and variety. Many of the boys and
men were in dilapidated European costume. There were 100 items on the
programme, and the concert continued until the small hours of Sunday
morning. I left before midnight, and slept on the ground underneath the
bright penetrating stars. The darkness of the night was illuminated by
flashes of summer lightning on the eastern horizon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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