Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted DesertLaut, Agnes C.
History
Through Our Unknown Southwest: The Wonderland of the United States—Little Known and Unappreciated—The Home of the Cliff Dweller and the Hopi, the Forest Ranger and the Navajo,—The Lure of the Painted Desert
Laut, Agnes C.
Hopi Indians; Navajo Indians; Southwest, New -- Description and travel
Picture to yourself a precipice face from 300 to 700 feet high,
literally punctured with tiny porthole windows and doll house open cave
doors. It is sunset. The rocks of these box-canyons in the Southwest are
of a peculiar wine-colored red and golden ocher, or else dead gray and
gypsum white. Owing to the great altitude--some of the ruins are 9,000
feet above sea level, 1,000 above valley bottom--the atmosphere has that
curious quality of splitting white light into its seven prismatic hues.
Artists of the Southwestern School account for this by the fact of
desert dust being a silt fine as flour, which acts like crystal or glass
in splitting the rays of white light into its prismatic colors; but this
hardly explains these high box-canyons, for there is no dust here. My own
theory (please note, it is only a theory and may be quite wrong) is that
the air is so rare at altitudes above 6,000 feet, so rare and pure that
it splits light up, if not in seven prismatic colors, then in elementary
colors that give the reds and purples and fire tints predominance.
Anyway, at sunset and sunrise, these box-canyons literally swim in a
glory of lavender and purple and fiery reds. You almost fancy it is a
fire where you can dip your hand and not be burned; a sea in which
spirits, not bodies, swim and move and have their being; a sea of fiery
rainbow colors.
The sunset fades. The shadows come down like invisible wings. The
twilight deepens. The stars prick through the indigo blue of a desert
sky like lighted candles; and there flames up in the doorway of cavern
window and door the deep red of juniper and cedar log glow in the
fireplaces at the corner of each room. The mourning dove utters his
plaintive wail. You hear the yap-yap of fox and coyote far up among the
big timbers between you and the snows. Then a gong rings. (Gong? In a
metal-less age? Yes, the gong is a flint bar struck by the priest with a
bone clapper.) The dancers come down out of the caves to the dancing
floors in the middle of the narrow canyon. You can see the dancing rings
yet, where the feet of a thousand years have beaten the raw earth hard.
Men only dance. These are not sex dances. They are dances of thanks to
the gods for the harvest home of corn; or for victory. The gong ceases
clapping. The campfires that scent the canyon with juniper smells,
flicker and fade and die. The rhythmic beat of the feet that dance
ceases and fades in the darkness.
That was ten thousand years agone. Where are the races that danced to
the beat of the priest's clapper gong?
I wakened one morning in one of the Frijoles caves to the mournful wail
of the turtle dove; and there came back that old prophecy--it used to
give me cold shivers down my spine as a child--that the habitat of the
races who fear not God shall be the haunt of bittern and hoot owl and
bat and fox.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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