Through the Casentino with Hints for the TravellerEckenstein, Lina
History
Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller
Eckenstein, Lina
Casentino (Italy) -- Description and travel; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
As it stands at present the retreat of La Verna is distinguished chiefly
by the large number of its altar-pieces in glazed terra cotta by the
della Robbias. Except in the museum at Florence there are nowhere so
many fine examples of their work to be found together. They are gifts
for the most part from distinguished Florentine families. They include a
large altar-piece, on which the Virgin is seen handing her girdle to St
Thomas; a Transfiguration, on a large scale, with the figures of the
twelve Apostles standing below in beautiful grouping and the most
varied expression. There is a Nativity with the figures of St Francis
and St Anthony of Padua behind the Virgin and St Joseph, and an
Annunciation; both of these are of exquisite grace. All these
altar-pieces and other single figures, such as St Francis, are in the
usual style of blue and white. I find them variously attributed to Luca
and to Andrea della Robbia. In the gallery on the way to the chapel
there is a large Pietà in polychrome. The most beautiful, however, of
all is a large altar-piece of the Crucifixion, the sole decoration of
the Chapel of the Stigmata.
Slowly we ascended the steep path which led up to the convent. We passed
under an archway and found ourselves before the entrance to the main
church. The site of La Verna was granted to St Francis by Count Orlando
of Chiusi in the year 1213; it was the only gift of a site ever accepted
by the saint, who held himself betrothed to poverty. Probably a small
church was erected under his direction; but when the fame spread of his
having here received the impress of the stigmata, a special interest
attached to the site. Pope Alexander IV. took the “Mons Alvernus” under
his protection; in 1260 a church was consecrated in the presence of
Bonaventura and six bishops; and a few years later the Chapel of the
Stigmata was built through the munificence of Count Simone of
Battifolle. The chief church is now a large one; it was begun in 1348,
but it was not completed till some time in the fifteenth century, when
the whole settlement of La Verna, the “Seraphicus Mons,” as it was
called, had passed under the protectorate of the Signory of Florence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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