Through the Casentino with Hints for the TravellerEckenstein, Lina
History
Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller
Eckenstein, Lina
Casentino (Italy) -- Description and travel; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
The churches at La Verna form part of a vast mass of buildings. We were
told that the convent affords accommodation for five hundred friars. As
we were about to enter the main church we met some of them walking in a
procession, two and two. They had been celebrating service in church,
and now they walked down the gallery to conclude it in the chapel,
chanting as they went along. We afterwards met them again coming out.
There were forty of them, vigorous men for the most part, wearing the
rough brown frock and cord, with sandals on their bare feet. It was
difficult to tell at a glance from what class they were drawn; certainly
not from the higher and more refined. They greatly differed as to age,
and the older men had the better appearance. On the whole they were not
dignified in bearing, and in person did not look as clean as they might
have done.
We spent a long time in church, looking at the altar-piece and reading
what the guide-book to the Casentino of Beni had to say of La Verna.
This is the only guide-book to the district as far as I know. It was our
constant companion, but we found that it required close and repeated
reading, for it is a queer jumble of all kinds of information. We then
wandered along the gallery which bridges the abyss between the
settlement and the isolated bit of rock on which stands the Chapel of
the Stigmata. With its dark panelling and its one large altar-piece this
chapel is a true place of rest. Its large della Robbia represents the
Crucifixion, with the figures of the Virgin, St John the Baptist, St
Jerome and St Francis standing and kneeling below. This association of
saints of later date with the characters of Scripture comes at first as
a shock to the historical mind; to the Middle Ages it appeared natural.
St Anthony of Padua, in a vision, saw the child Christ sitting on his
prayer-book. St Bernard, in a vision, saw the Virgin standing before
him. When these scenes came to be represented in art they assumed the
form of real incidents. And by a further development, St Francis and
other holy men and women of the Middle Ages were pictured in
contemplation of the Nativity, the Crucifixion and other decisive
moments in Biblical history as though they had been present at them in
the flesh.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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