Through the first Antarctic night, 1898-1899 : $b a narrative of the voyage of the "Belgica" among newly discovered lands and over an unknown sea about the south poleCook, Frederick Albert
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Through the first Antarctic night, 1898-1899 : $b a narrative of the voyage of the "Belgica" among newly discovered lands and over an unknown sea about the south pole
Cook, Frederick Albert
Antarctica; Antarctica -- Discovery and exploration -- Belgian; Belgica (Ship); Voyages and travels
In the afternoon the Minister, Count van den Steen, took Commandant de
Gerlache and most of the scientific staff ashore to begin the first
of a long series of presentations and introductions to the congenial
Brazilian officials. We were first presented to the chief of customs
and the Minister of marine affairs, from whom we derived the twofold
pleasure of being warmly greeted and freed of harbour dues, custom
annoyances, and other troublesome local regulations.
It was to me a source of never-ceasing interest to note the
translations of the various questions asked. This portrayed clearly
the Brazilian notion of a polar expedition. The ideas proved to be
so tropical that I must risk a breach of etiquette and quote enough
to show Brazilian versions of polar work. We were constantly asked,
“Have you a smoking-room and much tobacco?” “Of course you have lots
of wine and other nice drinks, but have you plenty of good things to
eat? You must take some Brazilian coffee.” Others would put to us
questions about our provision for pleasure, music, games, and pastimes
in general, but I do not remember having been asked even once about
the serious scientific work of the expedition. One broad-minded and
apparently intelligent fellow, well on in the winter of life--a member
of the Cabinet, asked the usual questions about wines, cigars, and
personal comforts, and then, having heard of Mrs. Peary’s experience
in the North; he asked if we had any women among us? On being answered
with a rather sharp and quick “no!” he remarked: “Then, I don’t want to
go along.”
This explains the lack of interest of South Americans in anything
polar. So long as beautiful women, good wines, fine cigars, and
delicate foods are not found at the south pole, Latin Americans will
probably not aspire to reach it.
The magnetic instruments were taken to the local observatory for
adjustment and comparison. To do this properly required about a
week, hence arrangements were made for various receptions, tours of
exploration, of pleasure, and what not. The zoölogist, Mr. Racovitza,
learning that he could take a fast steamer and reach Punta Arenas about
a fortnight in advance of the expedition, at once made arrangements
to leave us. This will afford him much additional and valuable time
to make collections and observations in the immediate vicinity of the
Strait of Magellan.
We began the week on Monday by the Presidential reception. The Belgian
Minister, Count van den Steen, had arranged the details and according
to his instructions we assembled at the office of Consul Laurys
shortly after noon. From here we embarked in coaches drawn by small
but handsome mules. We were hurried through narrow streets, along an
endless number of low houses, plastered outside and in. The doors and
windows were full of men, women and children, scantily dressed but ill
at ease, all doing nothing in various ways.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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