Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Wandering gipsy tribes turn up here, too; mysterious roving gangs, their
scant possessions, tin pots and tent poles, piled on ponies; their
children, often as naked as they were born, perched on top of the load.
They have no abiding place; impelled by a primeval instinct, they pass
on eternally. Extraordinarily handsome savages some of them are, too. I
have seen them on the march--the men in front, three abreast, swinging
along like panthers; half stripped, clad in dirty white breeches and
cartridges; making up with firearms for deficiency in shirts, and
carrying, each man, in addition to his rifle, a long sheath knife and a
pistol in his red sash, their matted coal-black locks falling down to
their beady, glittering black eyes, which watch you like a cat's,
without ever looking you straight in the face. Their white teeth and the
brass cases of the cartridges sparkling against their swarthy skins,
they passed with their heads held high on their sinewy throats with an
air of fierce and sullen independence. Behind follow the boys, women,
and children, with all their worldly goods; golden-brown women with
scarlet lips and dazzling teeth, their hair hanging in a thick black
plait on either side of the face, like that of the ladies of ancient
Egypt; holding themselves like queens, and, unlike their lords and
masters, smiling very good-naturedly. So entirely do they appear to
belong to an unknown, untamed past, that I was astonished when one of
them, a splendid girl in tawny orange and crimson, addressed me in
fluent Italian outside the Podgoritza inn. "I am a gipsy. Are you
Italian?" Italy was her only idea of a foreign land, and England quite
unknown to her. She hazarded a guess that it was far off, and imparted
the information to a little crowd of Albanian and Montenegrin boys who
were hanging around. When the servant of the inn thought the crowd too
large, he came out to scatter it. The boys fled precipitately; the girl
stood her ground firmly, as one conscious of right, and told him what
she thought of him volubly and fiercely, her eyes flashing the while. He
retired discomfited, and she informed us superbly, "I told him the
ladies wished to speak to me!" Unlike the Montenegrins, she understood
at once that we were merely travelling for travelling's sake, and
regarded it as perfectly natural. She retired gracefully when she had
learnt what she wished to know.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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