Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
The Montenegrin and Albanian gipsies are mostly Mohammedans, and what is
vaguely described as Pagan. They seldom or never, it is said, intermarry
with the people among whom they wander, but keep themselves entirely to
themselves. One day the old quarter of Podgoritza was agog with a
Mohammedan gipsy wedding. From across the river we heard the monotonous
rhythmic pulsation of a tambourine, and at intervals the long-drawn
Oriental yowl that means music. We strolled down to the bridge and
joined the very motley collection of sight-seers. Gay and filthy, they
gathered round us, and enjoyed at once the spectacle of two foreigners
of unknown origin and the festivity which was going on in the back
garden hard by. It could hardly be called a garden, it was the yard of a
squalid little hovel backing on the river, and was filled with women in
gorgeous raiment walking backwards and forwards in rows that met and
swayed apart, singing a long howling chant, while the pom-pom and
metallic jingle of the tambourine sounded over the voices with
mechanical regularity. Presently all fell aside and left a space, into
which leapt a dancing-girl, a mass of white silk gauze with a golden
zouave and belt and a dangling coin head-dress. She wreathed her arms
gracefully over her head and danced a complicated _pas-seul_ with great
aplomb and certainty, her white draperies swirling round her and her
gold embroideries flashing in the sunlight. When she ceased, the party
withdrew into the dirty little hut, and as we were now the whole
attraction to the obviously verminous crowd we withdrew also. The hut
was the headquarters of the bridegroom, and this was a preliminary
entertainment. Next morning, four carriages dashed into the town at
once, bringing the bride and her escort from Skodra in Albania. The
horses' heads were decorated with gaily embroidered muslin
handkerchiefs, and the bride's carriage was closely curtained and
veiled. The amount of men and weapons that poured out of the other
vehicles was astounding. When three carriages had unloaded, the bride's
carriage drove up close to the entrance of the yard in which the hut
stood, and the men made a long tunnel from door to door by holding up
white sheets; down this the bride fled safe and invisible, while
curiosity devoured the spectators on the bridge. Every window in the hut
was already shuttered and barred, and we thought there was no more to be
seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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