Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
But our presence had been already noted. A commotion arose among the men
at the door of the hovel. A young Montenegrin onlooker came up, pulled
together all his foreign vocabulary and stammeringly explained, "They
wish you to go into their house." All the men in the crowd were consumed
with curiosity about the hidden bride, and obviously envied us the
invitation. We hesitated to plunge into the filthy hole. We didn't
hesitate long, though. The bride and her friends meant to show off their
finery to the foreigners; a dark swagger fellow who would take no denial
was sent out to fetch us, and we followed our escort obediently to the
cottage door. We paused a half-second on the doorstep; it looked bad
inside, but it was too late to go back. A passage was cleft for us
immediately, and we found ourselves in a long low room with a mud
floor--a noisome, squalid den in which one would not stable an English
donkey. There was no light except what came through the small door and
the chinks. It was packed with men; their beady, bright eyes and silver
weapons glittered, the only sparks of brightness in the gloom.
As my eyes got accustomed to the subdued light, I saw in the corner a
huge caldron of chunks of most unpleasant-looking boiled mutton, with
floating isles of fat, and my heart sank at the thought that perhaps
our invitation included the wedding breakfast. The men guarding the door
of the inner apartment parted, and we went in. No man, save the
bridegroom, entered here. It was a tiny hole of a room, but its dirty
stone walls were ablaze with glittering golden embroideries and it was
lighted by oil lamps. The floor was covered with women squatting close
together, their brown faces, all unveiled, showing very dark against
their gorgeous barbaric costumes. It was a fierce jostle of
colours--patches of scarlet, orange, purple and white, mellowed and
harmonised by the lavish use of gold over all, coin head-dresses,
necklaces, and girdles in reckless profusion. In the light of common day
it would doubtless resolve itself into copper-gilt and glass jewels, but
by lamplight it was all that could be desired. On a chair, the only one
in the room, with her back to the partition wall, so as to be quite
invisible to the men in the next room, sat the bride, upright,
motionless, rigid like an Eastern idol. Her hands lay in her lap, her
clothes were stiff with gold, and she was covered down to the knees with
a thick purple and gold veil. There she has to sit without moving all
day. She may not even, I am told, feed herself, but what nourishment she
is allowed is given her under the veil by one of the other ladies. At
her feet, cross-legged on the ground, sat the bridegroom, who I believe
had not yet seen her--quite the most decorative bridegroom I ever saw, a
good-looking fellow of about five-and-twenty, whose black and white
Albanian garments, tight-fitting, showed him off effectively, while the
arsenal of fancy weapons in his sash gave him the required touch of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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