Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
We were put upon the right track and left to our own devices. We had
been up since five, and had only had a scrappy, unhappy doze under the
tree, so we told each other we would go to sleep on the first piece of
ground that was flat enough. Having zigzagged up some way through the
wood, we lay down on a piece of grass, and should have been asleep in a
minute had not two natives appeared, an old man and a handsome lad. They
seemed much interested and concerned. I merely said it was very hot, and
hoped it would be enough for them. Not a bit of it. They started an
argument. I said I didn't speak the language, so they shouted to make it
clearer, and kept pointing up the path. What they meant I did not know.
It was evident, though, that the Handsome Lad did not mean to be trifled
with. He squatted alongside of us and shouted in my ear, while the old
man sat down and showed signs of staying as long as we did. So we
wearily started upwards again, and the Montenegrins, delighted at having
made us understand, went their way much pleased with their own
cleverness. We dared not rest again, and soon reached the upper
monastery of Ostrog, which was so strange and unexpected that the sight
of it did away with all thoughts of fatigue at once.
The path ended on a terrace cut in the rock 2500 feet above the sea. The
small guest-house stood against the mountain side, and a flight of newly
made steps led up through a stone doorway to a series of caverns in the
cliff face, cunningly built in and walled up to form tiny rooms, which
cling to the rock like swallows' nests. The big natural arch of rock
that overshadows them all is grimed with the dead black of smoke, and
two great white crosses painted on the cliff mark the shrine. Straight
above rises the almost perpendicular wall of bare rock, and far below
lies the valley. This is the eagle eyrie that, in 1862, Mirko Petrovich,
the Princes father, and twenty-eight men held for eight days against the
Turkish army of, it is said, ten thousand men. The Turks tried vainly to
shell the tiny stronghold, and even a determined attempt to smoke out
the gallant band failed. Mirko and his men, when they had used all their
ammunition and had rolled down rocks upon the enemy, succeeded in
escaping over the mountains, under cover of night, and reached Rijeka
with the loss of one man only. It is a tale which yet brings the light
of battle to the eyes of the Montenegrin and sends his fingers to
caress the butt of his revolver, and must be heard from Montenegrin lips
to be appreciated. A hundred years before, thirty men held this same
cavern against an army, and wild as these tales sound, the first glance
at the place forces belief. Twice only have the Turks succeeded in
occupying it. Once after Mirko and his men left it, and once in 1877,
when Suleiman Pasha held it, sent the proud message to Constantinople
that he had conquered Montenegro and that it was time to appoint a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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