Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
He led the way into the tiny transept on the left. "Here, you see, I
have made for them the Holy Sepulchre"; and we saw by the light of the
little taper a bier covered with a black and gold cloth, and a painting
of the dead Christ. "They come to me, the poor wayfarers, for
consolation, so weary, so suffering. I tell them of Him. I bring them in
here and I show them the wounds on His feet. Then they understand. So I
can teach them. To help the afflicted, that is religion. Some days I
write, songs of religion, of the visions that I see; for the light that
is given to us we must employ to show the path toothers." He looked
inspired as he stood there, a majestic black-robed figure, the taper,
like a guiding star, in his hands, the light of the altar candles
falling on his finely cut spiritual features, the solitary sentinel of
this Christian outpost. "The church of God, built by His hands in the
wilderness; to care for it is all my life," he said humbly. He
extinguished the lights, and we stepped out into the sunshine. By the
side of the church he pointed out a second cavern in which rises a clear
spring of water, the same, maybe, which carved the nave and transepts.
It makes the hermitage possible in this otherwise waterless spot, and
flows off underground to hew its way silently through the rock.
We turned to say good-bye to him. "But no!" he cried, "you have come so
far to see me, I beg you will rest for a while in my house. When shall I
again see visitors from England?" He led the way into his cottage;
visitors, not only from England but from the outside world at all, are
scarce with him. I think we called to his mind a whole host of
recollections; for he started at once, and the time flew as he unfolded
the story of his life in little sentences, earnestly and quickly, from
time to time drawing his black gown across his breast with a swift
dramatic action that gave point to his speech. He had been educated in a
Russian university, and thence had gone to Paris. He regretted not
having visited London. "It seemed so far," he said; "now it seems that I
was so near!" But all the time the mountains called to him. "I cannot
live away from the mountains and my poor Montenegrins. In the great
towns, it was here that I wished to be. I intended to come here and to
make a large monastery. But my family did not wish me to lead the
religious life. My grandfather was a rich man--not what in England you
would call rich, but rich in Montenegro. When I became religious, he
gave me none of the money, not any. I have not been able to carry out my
plan. It was God's will. My work is here. It is to help my poor
Montenegrins to keep their faith. Without faith what is a nation? Ah! I
have travelled and I have seen sad things. But in your country,
mademoiselle, they have faith. The Church of England and our Church,
they have differences, that is true, but they are slight. We are all
Christians; there are so many points upon which we can agree. We must
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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