Strange sights appear to the traveller as he stands at Iddo Wharf. The
strangest—or the strangest thought—of all is that there should be a train
running in West Africa on which there is every reasonable comfort and
luxury, and that this train should be in existence—the first of its kind
in this part of the world—a few months after the extension of the line
had been opened. First, however, a word or two on the surroundings at the
terminus.
The train leaves at 9 p.m. on whatever day the ocean ship arrives. The
vessel is due in the morning, but people have not the inconvenience
of loafing about a strange town for hours. The boat train is an ark,
available all day as a resting-place for the sole of the foot. All its
resources for meals can at once be utilised.
By nightfall most of the luggage will have been stowed in the vans. A few
late arrivals, perhaps persons who have not come by the ship, will be
having their belongings attended to. Black wharf labourers, who have been
working late and are going home, put their umbrellas on the ground in
order to give a hand in packing the vans. These labourers, whose attire
is usually like that of the Wandering Minstrel in “The Mikado,” “a thing
of shreds and patches,” almost to a man carry an umbrella as they go home
o’ nights—bless you! not for protection against rain, but as an article
of adornment. It is as much a matter of course with them as the clay pipe
and the cloth cap are with their counterpart in Great Britain. Different
countries, different customs.
Nearly all the other officials at Iddo Wharf are also indigenous West
Africans—clerks, inspectors, foremen, porters. There are as many grades
and degrees of education among any one Coast people as there are with
our folks in Europe. Were this fact always recognised and remembered,
perhaps a little more tact might be exercised by individuals who regard
all black men as “niggers” and suit their actions to the word. I stand as
no apologist for the smatteringly-educated native, who dressed in uniform
takes up an attitude truculent and offensive towards white men. It is
British policy and systems of education which are responsible.
There is also at Iddo Wharf at least one first-class, white railway
official on duty to attend to any matter requiring his attention.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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