The train usually consists of eight coaches, some of them fifty feet
long, and therefore easy running at the fairly high speed over certain
portions of the line. Meals are served en route, and every attention
is received from the inspector of restaurant cars, who was formerly a
chief steward in the Elder Dempster fleet. In the course of the journey
I witnessed his solicitude, and that of the European head guard, Cyril
Richards, for passengers who were not well and unable to take the table
meals. The inspector, whose name I regret to have mislaid, had light
food brought instead, the charge for which was, in instances, less than
a quarter that of the regular menu. Perhaps the action does not appear
surprising, but it means a deal in a country where a man feels weak and
knows he has little margin of strength to withstand the effect of the
climate.[1]
The term sleeping saloon means provision of bed, blankets, and linen.
Couches are fitted for rest during the day. Electric light is in all
compartments, which are provided with electrically-driven fans and have
mosquito-proof windows. Shower baths are another luxury for which there
is no extra payment. No doubt it all sounds prosaic enough to the trotter
across the European continent. Let him “pad the hoof” in the tropics, or
so much as be in an ordinary West African train for several days where he
is entirely “on his own,” with a temperature ranging from 90 degrees to
112 degrees in the shade, or with the Harmattan winds bringing scorching
dust into his ears, nostrils and the pores of his skin, covering every
mouthful before it can enter that avenue. Should he have experienced
these things, have a memory, and is inclined to gratitude, then he will
take off his hat to the Administration of the Lagos Government Railway,
if he does not go so far as to be Biblically impelled and rise up and
call the work of their hands blessed.
The traveller wakes for early morning tea to find himself traversing the
palm belt. There is a continuous line of the tall, thin, bare trunks,
surmounted by the graceful, drooping palms beneath which cluster the
kernels which are the main wealth of Southern Nigeria. Palm kernels and
palm oil are to Southern Nigeria what coal is to England. There are
rumours that that mineral has been located on the lower Niger. Possibly I
may be able to say something on the subject as I come down the river on
the return journey.
Running through at night, several features of interest are unseen,
prominent among them the exceptionally pretty view towards the Sacred
Hill at Olokemeji and Ibadan, the largest town in West Africa, though not
nearly so frequently spoken of as the much smaller ones of Zaria, Bida,
Sokoto and Kano. Each has had the advertisement of war.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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