Let there be no mistake about the accommodation in Zungeru. It is
extremely limited. If anybody thinks to arrive by train and “roll off”
to an hotel he will be grievously disappointed. Only in one town of
Southern and Northern Nigeria—territory 333,300 square miles in extent—is
there an hotel. That is at Lagos. Men come without previous notice or
inquiry to Zungeru and expect provision to be made in the way of board
and lodging. It simply cannot be done. Bungalows are few and nearly all
are overcrowded, from Government House down. The Chief Secretary to the
Government, the Chief Justice, the Attorney-General, the Commandant, the
Treasurer, the Director of Public Works, the Principal Medical Officer,
the Chief Transport Officer, the Inspector-General of Police, and the
Commissioner of Police alone have separate housing, very circumscribed.
The rest of the Government staff are “doubled-up,” i.e., two men to
every three-roomed bungalow. As matters stand, there are not sufficient
bungalows to go round even on this plan. It is not uncommon for an
official to be moved from one to another as a man returns to duty, just
finding room where somebody is going on vacation.
Four rest-houses are provided for visitors staying temporarily. The
structures are rather primitive, of dried mud walls and thatched roofs.
The stranger within the gates must bring all his daily requirements with
him: bed, table, chair, cooking utensils, groceries, etc. Fresh meat can
be bought in the native market at certain hours of the day.
Happy in the enjoyment of hospitality at a large private house, I felt
quite a twinge of unworthiness at going to interview at one of these
rest-houses a President of Chamber of Mines, Colonel Judd, who in England
probably dines at the Carlton, the Ritz, or the Midland Grand, and who,
even in Northern Nigeria, wearing a bush shirt, was still spruce, with a
gold-rimmed monocle. A dozen people would have been glad to pay him the
compliment of an invitation as guest, but there was simply no room in
Zungeru where he could be placed. Colonel Judd was the least concerned of
anybody. He expressed himself as quite content, and told me, as we both
sat on the arm-rests of the single deck-chair available, that he had had
to put up with much worse places in the course of his journey and that I
would be fortunate to get as good in the areas I shall shortly cross.
These four rest-houses are frequently all occupied to the fullest
extent. The advent of a stranger, perhaps bent on business with a
Government department, creates a painful situation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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