CLOSE OF THE TREK Character of carriers—The only blow given—Native grooms’ monetary transactions—Material for a _cause célèbre_—Dispensing justice on the road—Headman Dan Sokoto—Dan’s sharp practices—A long march 237 CHAPTER XXIX TOWARDS THE PAGAN COUNTRY Hausa and Pagan—Distinction of dress—Deeper divisions—The price of peace in former days—Public highway—Revenge and brotherhood—Scope of an Assistant Resident 243 CHAPTER XXX IN A PAGAN TOWN Bukuru Residency—Bukuru town—Its ingenious defences—Traps for an attacking force—The blacksmith—Musical instruments—Pagan orchestras—A royal male Pavlova—The Court band—A King’s reward—Pagan homesteads—The sleeping apartment—Farming—Incentives to obtain, money—Enhancing nature’s charms—Male and female decorations—Bareback and bitless horsemanship—Races—Care of horses—The hunt—Sign language 247 CHAPTER XXXI ADMINISTERING JUSTICE AND TAXATION Direct rule—Cases in a Resident’s Court—Wife and “another man”—Trial by ordeal—Modification of that method—Kidnapping for slaves—“The liberty of the subject”—Extenuating circumstances and even-handed justice—Benefits that are not welcomed—The joy of fighting—Graduated taxation—How to express numerals to people who have no such terms—Two tax collectors—First lessons in administration 260 CHAPTER XXXII MARRIAGE AND DEATH CUSTOMS Fashions—A wedding-ring warning—The former way with undesirables—Succession to a Chief ship—Marriage—Dowries—A perpetual leap-year—Widows—Burial usages—Cannibalism—Eating those who die from natural causes—Etiquette of the practice—A credit and debit account 269 CHAPTER XXXIII SOLDIERS AND THEIR SPORTS British-trained troops—Little-known Mr Atkins—Swearing-in recruits—Hausa and Pagan oaths—Native priests on active service—Number of wives allowed—Artillery on men’s heads—Gun drill—Dipping for toroes—Mounted infantry—Signalling tuition—Teaching the band—Inculcating self-reliance—The military classification of white civilians 278 CHAPTER XXXIV ZARIA CITY AND PROVINCE Prominence of Zaria—As a produce and trading centre—The gold discoveries—Opposite deductions—Model, native town-planning—Various taxes 291 CHAPTER XXXV THE BARO-KANO RAILWAY