Emir’s assent—Compensation for palm trees—A locomotive’s food—Engine whistling preferred to Caruso—Official opening—Natives’ curiosity—A Mallam’s impressions—Horse _v._ train 299 CHAPTER XXXVI BARO ON THE NIGER Baro port—A Selfridge-Whiteley 400 miles up the Niger—London frock-coats in West Central Africa—Fretwork and ladies’ garments—An untutored eye and its guide—The rat a table delicacy—Oje’s local patriotism—Baro and Jebba; hygienic problems—A superfluous hospital 306 CHAPTER XXXVII LOKOJA First stage down the Niger—Lokoja’s past—The discovery of the brothers Lander—Previous theories—McGregor Laird’s enterprise—Eighty per cent. mortality—The 1841 expedition—Richardson, Barth and Overweg—Laird’s second endeavour—The House of Commons scuttle policy—Its reversal—First Fulani battle—Imperial control—Commerce of Lokoja—Vessels at the beach—Loading boats—Freedom of contract 312 CHAPTER XXXVIII LOKOJA—(_continued_) A cosmopolitan town—A Baron Haussman—The Cantonment Magistrate—Some of his duties—Expenditure and economy—King Abigah—A plea for generosity—The hospitals—A black Bishop’s legacy—The missionary question—Critics and the converse 324 CHAPTER XXXIX NAVIGATING THE NIGER Rise and fall—A tideless stream—Comfort afloat—The uncertain river—Nasaru the Pilot—Altered channels—When aground—Breakdown of machinery and smart repair—Tropical scenery—The crocodiles’ rest—Riverside villages—Where money is ignored—Estimation for old bottles and tins—Harmattan fog—An island trading station—Hazard and skill to maintain a time-table 334 CHAPTER XL BURUTU A port in a swamp—Training native engineers—A composite village—Social grades—Medical provision—Mr John Burns on a Nigerian river—Back to the sea 348 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A Gateway in the Wall of Kano _Frontispiece_ The Rt. Hon. Sir George Taubman Goldie, Founder of Nigeria _Facing page_ 64 One of the Emir’s Trumpeters ” 78 Native Skin-merchants with Transport, Kano ” 78 Captain J. J. Brocklebank, D.S.O. ” 82 The Premises of the London and Kano Trading Company at Kano ” 82 Sir Frederick Lugard, D.S.O., First Governor of Northern Nigeria ” 92