We followed the zigzagging trail up the steep side of the valley,
touching melting snow-banks in its upper courses, passing huge
granite rocks also melting in the slow heat of the geologic ages,
pausing to take in the rugged, shaggy spruces and pines that
sentineled the mountain-sides here and there, or resting our eyes
upon Liberty Cap, which carries its suggestive form a thousand feet
or more above the Nevada Fall. What beauty, what grandeur attended
us that day! the wild tumult of waters, the snow-white falls, the
motionless avalanches of granite rocks, and the naked granite shaft,
Liberty Cap, dominating all!
And that night, too, when we sat around a big camp-fire near our
tents in the valley, and saw the full moon come up and look down
upon us from behind Sentinel Rock, and heard the intermittent
booming of Yosemite Falls sifting through the spruce trees that
towered around us, and felt the tender, brooding spirit of the great
valley, itself touched to lyric intensity by the grandeurs on every
hand, steal in upon us, and possess our souls--surely that was a
night none of us can ever forget. As Yosemite can stand the broad,
searching light of midday and not be cheapened, so its enchantments
can stand the light of the moon and the stars and not be rendered
too vague and impalpable.
III
Going from the Grand Canon to Yosemite is going from one sublimity
to another of a different order. The canon is the more strange,
unearthly, apocryphal, appeals more to the imagination, and is the
more overwhelming in its size, its wealth of color, and its
multitude of suggestive forms. But for quiet majesty and beauty,
with a touch of the sylvan and pastoral, too, Yosemite stands alone.
One could live with Yosemite, camp in it, tramp in it, winter and
summer in it, and find nature in her tender and human, almost
domestic moods, as well as in her grand and austere. But I do not
think one could ever feel at home in or near the Grand Canon; it is
too unlike anything we have ever known upon the earth; it is like a
vision of some strange colossal city uncovered from the depth of
geologic time. You may have come to it, as we did, from the
Petrified Forests, where you saw the silicified trunks of thousands
of gigantic trees or tree ferns, that grew millions of years ago,
most of them uncovered, but many of them protruding from banks of
clay and gravel, and in their interiors rich in all the colors of
the rainbow, and you wonder if you may not now be gazing upon some
petrified antediluvian city of temples and holy places exhumed by
mysterious hands and opened up to the vulgar gaze of to-day. You
look into it from above and from another world and you descend into
it at your peril. Yosemite you enter as into a gigantic hall and
make your own; the canon you gaze down upon, and are an alien,
whether you enter it or not. Yosemite is carved out of the most
majestic and enduring of all rocks, granite; the Grand Canon is
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