British -- China -- Tibet Autonomous Region; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Our more pressing needs were therefore confined to fodder and grain and
tsampa, and many were the foraging parties that went forth on arrival in
camp, or that made a detour from the line of march in search of these
articles, some drawing blank, some getting very little, and some
occasionally a fair haul. At Ralung we got a fair haul. There is a very
fine monastery there, situated up a valley five miles from where we
camped. I remember spending a very pleasant afternoon there. I had gone
there, immediately after arriving in camp, with my commanding officer to
see what could be got out of the place. We found some whole barley, some
tsampa, and a fair stock of straw. My commanding officer left me there
to await the necessary transport while he went back to camp to send it.
I really had a very pleasant time, being hospitably entertained both by
the monks and also the nuns--especially the latter. They brought me out
'chang' to drink, a home-brewed light wine, made I believe from barley,
and the carcass of a sheep that had been cooked whole, and from which
you were expected to pick off your individual requirements. It had
already had a lot taken from it, and from a certain self-assertiveness
that there was about it, I concluded that it had been a standing dish
for a considerable period, and contented myself with my own sandwiches.
Then they came and talked to me through the interpreter whom I had with
me, and quite a youthful little nun in a picturesque woolly red cap came
and sat beside me and did her knitting. My overcoat had been wet through
for three days, and the sun coming out gave me a chance of drying it.
Quite warm and cosy it all was, with ladies' society and all thrown in.
I was quite sorry when, after several hours of waiting, a long
serpent-shaped line of mules slowly trailed up the valley and came for
the grain, the tsampa, and the straw.
We were paying again for what we foraged, and I remember doling out what
must have seemed to the recipients a prodigious number of rupees.
Tibetan monasteries are undeniably rich, but, especially in outlying
parts, I fancy they do all their buying and selling in kind. For
instance, they collect their taxes in kind, and it is certainly feasible
for them to obtain labour, clothing, and such necessaries without having
recourse to coin. The fact that the average Lama was unused to dealing
in large sums of money seemed to always have one of two opposite
effects. He either did not seem to grasp the fact that a large sum of
money really represented 'articles of value,' and had no desire whatever
to part with any of his possessions in exchange for it, or else, being
either less ignorant and knowing its value, or more simple-minded and
attracted by its glitter, he would accept the money with pronounced
greed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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