British -- China -- Tibet Autonomous Region; Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
The effect of all the coin that we took to and left in the country must
have had a curious economic effect on Tibet. For a country that trades
largely by barter to be suddenly flooded with rupees should, according
to the ordinary principles of political economy, raise the current
prices of all commodities to an extraordinary extent. However, Tibet,
queer country that it is, has probably a political economy all of its
very own, and will arrange such a matter entirely differently from
Western expectation.
Even our rupees, as such, were not always approved, a distinction being
sometimes drawn between those enfaced with King Edward's head and those
enfaced with Queen Victoria's. The latter were approved on the ground
that they were 'Kampani' rupees, the Queen's face being apparently
regarded as the trade mark of the East India Company, of which the past
generation of Tibetans must have heard and passed on the memory to their
children, who still thought it was in existence. A new symbol, such as
that of a man's head, was thus naturally viewed at first with
suspicion.
CHAPTER XIII
THE KARO-LÀ
The next day brought us just under the Karo-Là pass, and we camped at a
height of 16,600 feet, with a great mass of snow so near us on the
hillside that, while the sun was still up, it quite hurt our eyes to
look in that direction. Avalanches of snow kept falling from the mass,
coming down with a great thud that was almost startling. There was a
little mountain sickness that night; but, considering the height and the
fatigue that had been involved in reaching it, there was remarkably
little. A very little reconnoitring to the front in the early afternoon
had revealed the enemy in position a mile or so the other side of the
pass. They had built two walls, one behind the other, on what appeared
to be admirably selected ground. They seemed in fact to have been
studying tactics to some purpose.
It was pleasant to get up the next morning in a sharp frost, and to get,
as it were, one glimpse into winter--a glimpse, however, that only
lasted till the sun got up. Cold for the past few months had not been
our bugbear, but rain, and to-day there was no rain, the sky was
cloudless, and the air crisp and fresh, and as soon as the sun was up,
even moderately warm.
A few minutes' walk took us to the top of the pass, 16,800 feet. From
there the road descended gradually, but the headquarters' Staff, whom
for the moment I was accompanying, kept to the hillside at the same
level as the top of the pass till they came to a good _coin de vantage_
from which to view the first phase of the fight. For it was obvious that
we were to be opposed.
The artillery stayed close by us, while two parties of Ghurkhas were
sent to scale the heights on either side, and the Fusiliers and some
more infantry sent along the valley to attack the formidable-looking
walls which the Tibetans had erected ahead of us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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