To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
This habit of mind, and constant abhorrence of all that is new,
explains why the Sulaimanian still walks about in the costumes we see
in prints of books of travellers to Persia in the 16th century, why
his shirt-sleeves hang to the ground, why the skirts of his tunic wipe
the filth along the streets as he walks. These are the conservators of
the bad old customs, would-be slayers of the Jews among them, ignoring
the tie of blood that binds ninety per cent. of them to that race. The
custom and law relating to clothing is so strong that strangers living
among them, if they would hope to live without annoyance, must adopt
their style of raiment and reject the more convenient garments of their
own lands.
Their isolation has made them very suspicious of all strangers, and
from this suspicion has developed an inquisitorial bearing almost
intolerable. It is the right of every Sulaimanian to enquire closely
into the aims and identity of every new arrival. Fortunately he does
not resent equally close enquiry, even rather welcoming it as affording
an opportunity for self-aggrandisement and a self-righteous exposition
of his own respectability. Also, the intense suspicion with which they
approach the stranger renders it quite immaterial whether lies or truth
are given in answer to their queries. Inconsistent as it may seem, once
their questions are answered, and the information disseminated about
the town, the stranger is accepted at his own valuation and becomes
part of the population.
Having learned somewhat of these matters, I was not surprised to
receive a visit from a gorgeous individual, who came to see me at the
caravanserai one morning. This person was enveloped in a fine cloak of
camel’s hair, the right-hand side of the back of which was covered with
gold thread work: between its folds stuck out from the waistbelt the
sheath of a huge knife, and as he entered he removed from his feet a
new pair of Bagdad shoes. He saluted in excellent Persian, and having
accepted a cigarette, commenced without preambulation his queries,
which I answered as briefly as possible.
[Sidenote: INQUISITIVE VISITOR]
The dialogue was somewhat thus:--
“Where is your native country?”
“Persia.”
“Which town?”
“Shiraz.”
“Are there any Sulaimanians in Shiraz?”
“No, nor ever were.”
“Are you going to Persia?”
“I do not know at present.”
“Why do you not know at present? How shall a man not know his
destinations?”
“Because my plans are not formed.”
“Stay here, it is the best place--good water, good air, and a kindly
population. What are you by trade? Are you a doctor?”
“No, why?”
“Because of your European style of dress, which for any but a doctor is
an impropriety here. Are you a merchant?”
“Yes, I might be.”
“What are your wares?”
“Cloths and such like.”
“Have you also scented soap?”
“No; why do you ask that?”
“Because a merchant came from Mosul twenty years ago with scented soap,
but it is an impropriety here.”
“Why?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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