Tobacco: Growing, Curing, & Manufacturing: A Handbook for Planters in All Parts of the World — John Shaqi
Tobacco: Growing, Curing, & Manufacturing: A Handbook for Planters in All Parts of the World
Science
Tobacco: Growing, Curing, & Manufacturing: A Handbook for Planters in All Parts of the World
Tobacco; Tobacco industry
Any one accustomed to the cultivation of the crop, says Bishop, “knows
when it is ripe,—the veins of the leaves are swollen, the leaves begin
to look spotted and feel thick and gummy. The ends of the leaves will
crack on being doubled up. After it is ripe, the sooner it is cut the
better, as it is liable to injury by frost or hail, and will not
increase in weight as fast as the worms eat it, and the leaves get
broken by catching them. The plants will generally ripen from the 1st to
the 15th of September; they should not be cut immediately after a heavy
rain unless in danger of frost, as a portion of the gum washes out, but
should be allowed to stand 2–3 days. The cutting should not begin until
the dew is off; a cloudy day is best, for when the sun shines hot, they
will not have time to wilt sufficiently before they will sunburn, which
may be known by the leaves turning white and looking puckered. Commence
on one side of the piece, laying the plants all one way, in order to
facilitate loading. The plants may, most of them, be broken off easily,
by gently bending them over one way and another. Small plants, which
will not break, may be sawed off with an old saw or cut with a hatchet.
If the sun shines too hot, the plants should be turned over carefully to
prevent burning. After lying an hour or two to wilt sufficiently, so as
not to break by handling, they may be carted to the barn.”
In the words of Schneider, “when the plant begins to yellow, it is time
to put it away. It is cut off close to the ground, by turning up the
bottom leaves and striking with a tobacco-knife, formed of an old
scythe—such knives as are often used for cutting corn. Let it lie on the
ground for a short time to wilt, and then carry it to the tobacco-house,
when it may be put away in three different modes, by ‘pegging,’
‘spearing,’ and ‘splitting.’ Pegging tobacco is the neatest way and
best, yet the slowest. It is done by driving pegs about 6 inches long
and ½ inch or less square into the stalk, about 4 inches from the big
end of the stalk; and these pegs are driven in with a mallet, in a
slanting direction, so as to hook on to the sticks in the house. It is
then put on to a ‘horse,’ which, by a rope fixed to one corner, is
pulled up in the house and there hung upon the sticks, which are
regulated at proper distances. A ‘tobacco-horse’ is nothing more than
three small sticks nailed together so as to form a triangle, each side
being 3–4 feet long. Spearing is the plan I pursue; because it is neat
enough and decidedly the quickest plan. A rough block, with a hole
mortised in it, and a little fork a few inches from the hole for the
tobacco-stick to rest upon, one end being in the hole and a spear on the
other end of the stick, is all the apparatus required; the plant is
then, with both hands, run over the spear and thus strung upon the
sticks, which, when full, are taken to the house and hung up at once.
There are ‘dart-spears,’ like the Indian dart, and ‘round spears.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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