Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
On the east side a portion of the monastery has been converted into a
museum. Never was a collection more insignificant than that of the
_Museo Provincial_ of Toledo. The ground floor displays a quantity of
wood carvings, of Moorish azulejo, which is always a delight for the
eye, of bits of ancient monuments, of inscriptions, Arabic brims of
walls, with inscriptions and Moorish work, ever worth examining. Most of
the pictures and statues are exceedingly mediocre. But there is a superb
bust of Juanelo by Berruguete, and two portraits of El Greco, Juan de
Alava and Covarrubias, as well as his famous plan of Toledo, with the
slim and musing youth, his poetic-looking son, who was the charming
model of his St Martin as well. There is a Holy Family by Spagnoletto,
St Vicente Ferrer by Giordano, some saints by Carreño, and an original
canvas of Juan de Sevilla. Here, by examination of fourteen pictures of
Luis Tristan, you may test the absurdity of the statement by more than
one foreign art critic, that the disciple was greater than the master.
If Tristan was more sane and sound than _El Greco_, he was certainly
less distinguished and less great. There is a crucifix of Ribalta, a St
Jerome of Carducci, some fine subjects from Holy Scripture by Frank, and
a remarkable Christ of Morales, and a number of Flemish imitations. The
saloon above, where most of these pictures are preserved, was the cell
of the great Cisneros. The most interesting relic of all the collection
of inscriptions and stones is the mutilated slab taken from the roof of
the church of the Capucine Friars near the Alcázar, and found among the
materials used for building the patio of this palace, whose broken
letters show it to be a fragment of King Wamba's tomb:
VS Rex Wamba
LXX
LXXXIIIIIII
HUNC
EGIONIS
IV
which Antonio Ponz recomposes thus:
En tumulatus jacet inclitus Rex Wamba;
Regnum contempsit anno DCLXXX
Monachus obiit anno DCLXXXIIIIIII
A Cænobio translatus in Hunc locum
Ab Alphonsus X. Legionis Castellae autem IV. Reye.
In the now forsaken ghetto, where, in King Wamba's days, stood a strong
fortress called the _Castillo de la Juderia_, and which then was the
centre of Toledo's wealth and commerce, a flourishing quarter, full of
the activities of business, of intelligence, of industry, where riches
and science and the treasures of the King were gathered, where the
money-changers clinked golden promise in the face of reckless and needy
nobles, and rabbis read out the law in their beautiful temples to the
prosperous and numerous descendants of the exiles of Babylon, to-day may
be seen the lovely little synagogues, _El Transito_ and _Santa Maria La
Blanca_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account