Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
Toledo was used to travellers in the days of her greatness for, near all
the gates, Pisa tells us, there were inns for strangers. Not strangers
only, but the bishops and great lords, and sovereigns even, seem to have
patronised the inns of Toledo. Alfonso the Perfidious stayed at a posada
near the town gates when he came to visit his old protector and host,
Almenor, whom he invited to dinner here. More astonishing still than
this hospitable provision for travellers, is the fact we learn that
there was not only a foundling hospital for unclaimed children, but also
several homes for lost or strayed animals. Spain was more advanced in
this respect centuries ago than now, for it is pretty certain the race
shows no concern that we know of on behalf of forlorn and unprotected
brutes.
If you would have some dim notion of the castellated and walled aspect
of Toledo in Pisa's days, you have only to thread your way through his
prolix geographical history of the town. He begins with the magnificent
Puerta de Visagra, and when we examine this double gate in its present
battered and defaced condition, we cannot carp at the word "sumptuous"
which he applies to it. Sumptuous it must have been then, if now it is
magnificent. It holds the imperial arms, two eagles and a crown, with
castles and lions of middle size gilt, and an inscription. Outside this
gate, which, Pisa tells us, was shut at night, there was a broad space,
and another entrance without. Entering the city on this side, you came
by the parish of Santiago and San Isidro, and the barrier of La Granja.
The ascent was made by the old hermitage of the Cross to the Zocodover.
Here were two gates in a strong wall, probably half Roman and half
Gothic, and this was the entrance to the town. Pisa calls these gates
intermediary. Between the Puerta de Visagra and this latter gate in the
great tower, he describes another, smaller and less important, which was
always closed, and was called the gate of Almohada. Beyond this was
another called the gate of the twelve stones, descending from the
monastery of the Carmen by the Bridge of Alcántara. Before Pisa's time,
this gate was lower, and the twelve stones around obtained it the odd
name of _Doce Cantos_, there being supposed twelve fountains once here.
Another gate anciently called _Adabazim_, and afterwards _Hierro_, was
near the bridge and the mills, on the limits of the lovely gardens of
Alcurnia. Above the old hermitage of the Cross were the tower and gate
of King Aquila, and above Santo Domingo el Real, the tower of Alarcon,
with another intermediate between it and the Zocodover. From this ran
round a castellated wall, and here you entered the street of arms by the
Puerta de Perpiñan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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