Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of EducationBates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
History
Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education
Bates, E. S. (Ernest Stuart)
Europe -- Description and travel; Europe -- Social life and customs; Travel -- History
Yet Montaigne has something to say about Venice that cancels all the
intervening years and changes, and brings him into touch with us. He
went his way towards it with the highest expectations, explored it
eagerly, recollected it with the keenest pleasure: yet at the end of
his second day there his feeling was one of disappointment. It may
be taken as characteristic that he alone should experience then what
seems more appropriate to the present; more probably, other visitors
shared it but were too much subject to convention to say so; or,
perhaps, re-writing their experiences later at home, as they generally
did, they record their later thought only, whereas Montaigne left his
unrevised and unashamed. This explanation seems the more reasonable
inasmuch as the causes of the feeling had already come into being. On
the surface the sight rested satisfied, while the imagination remained
as hungry as ever. In a country, France, for instance, the tourist
always had a consciousness of towns and districts unseen, all of which
had contributed to the past, for evidence of the existence of which
the imagination looks, however unconsciously; but after two days in
Venice, all that is important and visible may seem to have been seen;
no suggestion of anything beyond, not even the ruins of a half-buried
city, as at Rome. It is true it was clear then that the word "Venice"
meant an Empire as well as a city, though by the time the tourist
had reached the city, he had passed through the conquests, barring
an island or two in the Levant which the Turks were in course of
subtracting. Yet the third meaning of the name was as dim to him as
both the second and the third are to most of us, that of the source of
an Empire, the whole collection of islands in the lagoons, whose larger
life had already been drained away into the central settlement, but
where Venice and its history were equally discoverable—but not in two
days.
Another similarity between Venice of old and of to-day lies in the
fact that the gondoliers knew much better than the visitors whither
the latter wanted to go and took them there, with, or against, orders;
only with this difference, that then it was always to the house of the
courtesan in whose pay he was.
When the tourist had released himself and was proceeding on his way
to Rome there were the beacons dotted along the coast for him to
notice, beacons for signalling the sighting of a Turk or corsair vessel
from south to north in a few hours. Ravenna received little notice,
Rimini less, but Ancona was kept in the memory by one of those rhymes
characteristic of the contemporary guide-book.
Unus Deus, Una Roma,
Unus turris, in Cremona,
Una portus, in Ancona.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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