It may have been two miles out of Rheims that we met the flood. There
had been one heavy shower as we entered the city, but presently the sun
broke out, bright and hot, too bright and too hot for permanence. Now
suddenly all was black again, there was a roar of thunder, and then
such an opening of the water-gates of the sky as would have disturbed
Noah. I turned the car over to the side of the road, but the tall,
high-trimmed trees afforded no protection. Our top was a shelter, but
not a complete one--the wind drove the water in, and in a moment our
umbrellas were sticking out in every direction and we had huddled
together like chickens. The world was blotted out. I had the feeling at
moments that we were being swept down some great submarine current.
I don't know how long the inundation lasted. It may have been five
minutes or thirty. Then suddenly it stopped--it was over--the sun was
out.
There was then no mud in France,--not in the highroads,--and a moment
or two later we had revived, our engine was going, and we were gliding
between fair fields--fresh, shining fields where scarlet poppy-patches
were as pools of blood. How peaceful it all was then, for there is no
lovelier land than the Marne district from Rheims to Châlons and to
Vitry-le-Francois. Yet it has been often a war district--a
battle-ground; it has been fought over time and again since the ancient
allies defeated Attila and his Huns there, checking the purpose of the
"Scourge of God," as he called himself. It could never be a
battle-ground again, we thought--the great nations were too advanced
for war. Ah me! within two months from that day men were lying dead
across that very road, shells were tearing at the lovely fields, and
another stain had mingled with the trampled poppies.
Châlons-sur-Marne, like Rheims and Epernay, is a champagne center and
seemed prosperous. There are some churches there, but they did not seem
of great importance.
It was in July when we were on the Marne. In an earlier chapter I have
told how, only three weeks later, when we had reached Vevey,
Switzerland, the "great upheaval" came, and with what disturbing
consequences. We did not leave Europe with the early rush. For a time
we hesitated about leaving at all. But then uncertainties increased.
With Italy planning war, the possibility of not being able to leave
when we were ready was not comforting. So in October at last we got a
military pass to take the car out of Switzerland, and on one of the
last days of the month set off up the Rhone Valley, down which Cæsar's
armies once had marched, and drove to Brigue, and the next day crossed
the Simplon Pass--up and up more than six thousand feet, where the snow
was flying, and where there are no villages any more, but only a
hospice, and here and there a wayside shelter. Then through a wild,
savage-looking land--down and down, into Italy, arriving in the rain at
Domodossola, glad, oh so glad, for safe shelter and food and beds!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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