Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Hence we went straight towards the slope of the mountains, and after
little more than an hour’s march reached the first advanced hill of the
chain, and began to enter on it by going up one of the wadys which open
from its flanks. It takes its name from the ethel (_Tamarix orientalis_),
which here and there breaks the monotony of the scene, and gradually
widens to a considerable plain bounded by majestic ridges. From this
plain we descended into the deep and rugged ravine of the large Wady
Sheikh, the abrupt cliffs of which presented to view beautiful layers
of red and white sandstone, with a lower horizontal layer of limestone,
and we looked out for a well-sheltered place, as the cold wind was very
disagreeable. The wady has its name from its vicinity to the chapel, or
zawíya, of the Merábet Bu-Máti, to which is attached a large school.
On setting out from this hollow we ascended the other side, and soon
obtained an interesting view of the varied outlines of the mountains
before us, with several half-deserted castles of the Arab middle ages
on the summits of the hills. The castle of the Welád Merabetín, used by
the neighbouring tribes chiefly as a granary, has been twice destroyed
by the Turks; but on the occasion of nuptial festivities, the Arabs, in
conformity with ancient usage, still fire their muskets from above the
castle. The inhabitants of these mountains, who have a strong feeling of
liberty, cling to their ancient customs with great fondness.
We descended again into Wady Sheikh, which, winding round, crossed our
path once more. The regular layers of limestone, which present a good
many fossils, with here and there a layer of marl, form here, during
heavy rains, a pretty little cascade at the foot of the cliffs. We
lost much time by getting entangled in a branch of the wady, which
had no outlet, but exhibited the wild scenery of a glen, worn by the
torrents which occasionally rush down the abrupt rocky cliffs. Having
regained the direct road, we had to cross a third time the Wady Sheikh
at the point where it is joined by Wady Ginna, or Gilla, which also we
crossed a little further on. In the fertile zone along the coast, the
monotony of the palm-groves becomes almost fatiguing; but here we were
much gratified at the sight of the first group of date-trees, which was
succeeded by others, and even by a small orchard of fig-trees. Here, as
we began to ascend the elevated and abrupt eastern cliffs of the valley,
which at first offer only a few patches of cultivated plateau, succeeded
further on by olive-trees, a fine view opened before us, extending to
the south-east as far as the famous Roman monument called Enshéd eʾ
Sufét, which is very conspicuous. Having waited here for our camels, we
reached the first village, whose name, “Ta-smeraye,” bears, like that of
many others, indubitable proof that the inhabitants of these mountainous
districts belong originally to the Berber race, though at present only
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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