Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
I rose at an early hour, in order to continue my route, and entered a
very pleasant country, rendered more agreeable in appearance by the
fineness of the morning. Winding along through hilly slopes covered
with luxuriant corn-fields and wide-spreading olive-trees, we reached
at half-past eight o’clock an interesting group of ruins consisting of
immense blocks, and amongst them one like the flat quadrangular stones
represented above, but having on its surface, besides the little channel,
a large hole; also a block of extraordinary dimensions, representing a
double altar of the curious massive sort described above. Close to these
remarkable ruins, in a fine corn-field, is a small castle, situated upon
a natural base of rock, in which subterranean vaults have been excavated
in a very regular way. Towards the south, at the distance of about half
an hour’s march, the large castle of Amámre rises into view. We then
reached the fine plantation of Rumíyeh, while on a hill to the left lie
other scattered ruins.
We met a good many people going to the Thursday market at Kúsabát.
Further on, near another little grove, we found a small encampment of
the Jehawát, a tribe which claims the possession of this whole district.
We then passed a castle irregularly built of large square stones about
twelve yards square. Having crossed a hollow, we obtained a good view
over the country, in which the “Merkeb Sʿaid n ʿAli” (the most advanced
spur of this chain towards the coast) formed a distinguished point,
while we had already reached the last low breaks of the mountain-country
towards the east. Meanwhile the greater dimensions of the ruins remind
the traveller that he is approaching the famous remains of Leptis. I
found here, a little to the right of our path, near a Bedouin encampment,
the ruins of a temple of large proportions, called Sanem ben Hamedán,
and of rather curious arrangement, the front, which faces the north
and recedes several feet from the side-walls, being formed by double
ranges of enormous stones standing upright—they can scarcely be called
pilasters,—while the inner part is ornamented with columns of the Ionic
order. The whole building is about forty paces long, and thirty-six
broad; but the architectural merit of its details is not sufficient
to repay the trouble of exact measurements. About a thousand yards
further on, to the east, are the ruins of another still larger monument,
measuring about seventy-seven paces in every direction, and called by
the Arabs Kasr Kérker. It has several compartments in the interior—three
chambers lying opposite to the entrance, and two other larger ones on the
east side. Nearly in the middle of the whole building, there is a large
square stone like those mentioned above, but having on one of its narrow
sides a curious sculpture in relief.
[Illustration]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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