Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Our voyage now became interesting; for while we were advancing at a fair
rate, we had a charming view of the mountain-range, which in clear
contours extended along in the distance behind the date-groves on the
coast, seen only in faint outlines. The western part of the chain is
very low, and forms almost a group apart, but after having been
intersected by a gap or “gate,” the chain rises to greater elevation,
being divided, as it would seem from hence, into three separate ranges
enclosing fine valleys.
We had hoped to cross the difficult channel to-day; but the wind
failing, we were obliged to anchor and await the daylight, for it is not
possible to traverse the straits in the night, on account of their
extreme shallowness. Even in the light of the following day, when we at
length succeeded, our little bark, which drew only two or three feet,
struck twice, and we had some trouble to get afloat again. On the
conspicuous and elevated promontory the “Jurf,” or “Tarf el jurf,” stood
in ancient times a temple of Venus, the hospitable goddess of the
navigator. Here on my former journey I crossed with my horses over from
the main to the island of Jirbi, while from the water I had now a better
opportunity of observing the picturesque character of the rugged
promontory. After traversing the shallow basin or widening, we crossed
the second narrowing, where the castles which defended the bridge or
“kantara,” the “pons Zitha” of the Romans, now lie in ruins on the main
as well as on the island, and greatly obstruct the passage, the
difficulty of which has obtained celebrity from contests between Islam
and Christianity in comparatively modern times.
Having passed safely through this difficult channel, we kept steadily on
through the open sea; and doubling Rás Mʿamúra, near to which our
captain had a little date-grove and was cheerfully saluted by his family
and friends, we at length entered the harbour of Zarzís, late in the
afternoon of Sunday, and with some trouble got all our luggage carried
into the village, which is situated at some distance. For although we
had the worst part of the land journey now before us, the border-
district of the two regencies, with the unsafe state of which I was well
acquainted from my former journey, and although we were insufficiently
armed, we were disposed to endure anything rather than the imprisonment
to which we were doomed in such a vessel as our Mohammed’s gáreb. I
think, however, that this nine days’ sail between Sfákes and Zarzís, a
distance of less than a hundred and twenty miles, was on the whole a
very fair trial in the beginning of an undertaking the success of which
was mainly dependent upon patience and resolute endurance. We were
rather fortunate in not only soon obtaining tolerable quarters, but also
in arranging without delay our departure for the following day, by
hiring two horses and three camels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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