Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 3 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
This cavalcade of the sheikh’s now joined the other troops, and the
whole body proceeded in the direction of Dawerghú to a distance of about
a mile from the town. Here the sheikh’s tent was pitched, consisting of
a very large cupola of considerable dimensions, with blue and white
stripes, and curtains, the one half white and the other red; the
curtains were only half closed. In this tent the sheikh himself, the
vizier, and the first courtiers were praying, while the numerous body of
horsemen and men on foot were grouped around in the most picturesque and
imposing variety.
Meanwhile I made the round of this interesting scene, and endeavoured to
count the various groups. In their numbers I was certainly disappointed,
as I had been led to expect myriads. At the very least, however, there
were 3000 horsemen, and from 6000 to 7000 armed men on foot, the latter
partly with bow and arrow. There were besides a great multitude of
spectators. The ceremony did not last long; and as early as nine o’clock
the ganga summoned all the chiefs to mount, and the dense mass of human
beings began to disperse and range themselves in various groups. They
took their direction round the north-western corner of the east town,
and entered the latter by the western gate; but the crowd was so great
that I chose to forego taking leave of the sheikh, and went slowly back
over the intermediate ground between the two towns in the company of
some very chevaleresque and well-mounted young Arabs from Ben-Gházi, and
posted myself at some distance from the east-gate of the western town,
in order to see the kashéllas, who have their residence in this quarter,
pass by.
There were twelve or thirteen, few of whom had more than one hundred
horsemen, the most conspicuous being Fúgo ʿAli, ʿAli Marghí, ʿAli
Déndal, ʿAli Ladán, Belál, Sálah Kandíl, and Jerma. It was thought
remarkable that no Shúwa had come to this festivity, but I think they
rarely do, although they may sometimes come for the ʿAid-el-kebír, or
the “ngúmerí layábe.” It is rather remarkable that even this smaller
festivity is celebrated here with such _éclat_, while in general in
Mohammedan Negroland only the “láya” is celebrated in this way; perhaps
this is due to Egyptian influence, and the custom is as old at least as
the time of the King Edrís Alawóma.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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