Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
The quarries which supplied the stone for the construction of the
city, are not far removed from the Antioch gate. They are every way
worthy remark. On both sides of a road, cut through the solid rock,
are seen the openings of caverns, capable of giving shelter to a
vast number of persons. From these again, which are tolerably light,
open a number of other passages, in all directions, from the principal
apartments. These I had neither time nor instruments to investigate;
but the people of the place pretend that one of these passages goes to
the castle, another to Antioch, &c. Traditions similar to which abound
in every country, which presents any caverns natural or artificial.
The material is a soft stone or tufa, replete with petrified
shells. It would appear that the artificers designed those quarries
for some useful purpose, as they have not only left rough columns, and
cut perpendicular shafts, which admit some portion of light, but the
walls are hewn to a much greater degree of smoothness than is usually
seen in quarries. It is certain they have afterwards been occupied,
as marks of fire, mangers for horses, and even burial places, may be
observed. In latter times, disbanded _dellîs_, not being admitted
into the city, have here fixed their abode, and become dangerous to
passengers, whom they have robbed, and sometimes murdered.
There is a large burying-place without the city. Here I observed
the tomb of an Englishman, dated 1613.
The dress of the people of Aleppo resembles that of Constantinople
more than that of Egypt and southern Syria: both men and women, in
rainy weather, wear a kind of wooden patten, which has no agreeable
effect either on the eye or the ear.
The hire of a camel from Aleppo to Ladakia or Scanderoon, about
sixty miles, was a century ago four piasters, thirty years ago eight
piasters, and is at this time nineteen. The price of commodities is
much changed in the course of not many years. But since the year 1716
it has increased in a tenfold proportion. I saw an authentic document,
that the _ardeb_ of rice at that time sold for eleven piasters;
it now fetches one hundred and eighteen piasters. They at that time
sold 185 rolls of bread, of a particular kind, for a piaster; they
now only sell forty of the same kind for that sum. Meat is good
and in plenty; it is sold for fifty paras the rotal, 720 drams,
or about 4½d. a pound. There are no fish, save a few small eels,
found in the _Coik_. Wine is very dear, none being produced in the
neighbourhood. On the other articles of provision nothing remarkable
occurs.
At Aleppo I first observed the practice of illuminating the mosques on
Thursday night, to usher in the Mohammedan Sabbath; this is unknown
at Kahira, and other cities of the South.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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