Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
On the 19th passed under _Dahr-el-chûr_, supposed to be the highest
summit of the Anti-Libanian chain of mountains. The following day
having set out four and a half hours before day-break, the muleteers
lost the road, and we were obliged to wait for sunrise, chilled with
the intense cold of these high mountains, which we felt severely
in our hands and feet. Arrived at Balbec about noon the same day,
after descending for nearly three hours through a ravine, or deep
glen in the mountain, a rugged and, in some places, a steep road.
From the high grounds we had a perfect view of Balbec, and went
to seek our lodging under some walnut-trees, on the North of the
castle. Some precaution was necessary against the _Metaweli_,
Mohammedans of the sect of Ali, who once formed a powerful and
ferocious tribe; even now, though crushed in a great degree by the
exertions of Jezzâr, they continue to persecute strangers, who have
often suffered from their predatory disposition.
The antiquities of Balbec have been often described, and I did
not observe any thing particular to add on that topic. Proceeded
to _Zahhlé_, a pleasant town among the mountains. Observed the
Lombardy poplar in abundance. At _Zahhlé_ met with a young man,
a Druse, who informed me, that near Balbec, two or three years ago,
in digging, the body of a man was found, interred in a kind of vault,
having a piece of unstamped gold in his mouth; near him was a number
of leaden plates, marked with characters to them unknown; they were
sold and melted. In another place was discovered a small statue, very
perfect, but I could not learn where it had been deposited. _Zahhlé_
is a large town, chiefly, if not solely inhabited by Christians; it
sends forth seven hundred men fit for war. The town is divided into
five districts, each having its separate Shech, who pays tribute to
the Emîr of the Druses; they complain of oppression; and the state
of the place, and the adjacent country, shews that their complaints
are not void of foundation. The town is sheltered by mountains,
but the locusts are very destructive. Tobacco is one of the chief
articles of cultivation. A rivulet rolling from the rocks turns the
mills and waters the grounds; air salubrious and never tainted with
excessive heat.
Near _Zahhlé_ saw what is called the _tomb of Noah_, a long
structure, seemingly part of an aqueduct. It extends about sixty feet,
the stature of Noah according to Oriental tradition. The pilgrims who
came formerly to worship in the mosque near it were very numerous;
and the religious revenue is said to amount to three hundred purses
annually.
Among the mountains the people have an air of health not observable
in the cities. Magic is still credited, and several are accused
before the bishop for incantations, producing love or enmity. The
pious antipathy between the Greeks and Catholics reigns here in all
its fury.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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