Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798 — John Shaqi
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
I had been much indisposed with a fever and dysentery, apparently
caused by drinking brackish water; and for the latter part of the
time was utterly incapable of making observations, having been
obliged to continue prostrate on a camel.
After leaving Siwa to go to Araschié, at about six miles from the
former, we passed a small building of the Doric order, apparently
designed for a temple. There either has been no inscription on it,
or it is now obliterated. But the proportions are those of the best
age of architecture, though the materials are ordinary, being only
a calcareous stone, full of marine spoils.
The ruin at Siwa resembles too exactly those of the Upper Egypt, to
leave a doubt that it was erected and adorned by the same intelligent
race of men. The figures of Isis and Anubis are conspicuous among the
sculptures; and the proportions are those of the Egyptian temples,
though in miniature. The rocks, which I saw in the neighbourhood,
being of a sandy stone, bear so little resemblance to that which is
employed in this fabric, that I am inclined to believe the materials
cannot have been prepared on the spot. The people of Siwa seem to
have no tradition concerning this edifice, nor to attribute to it
any quality, but that of concealing treasures, and being the haunt
of demons.
The distance between Siwa and Derna, on the coast, is said to be
thirteen or fourteen days journey; from Siwa to Kahira, twelve days;
and the same from Siwa to Charjé, the principal village of Elwah.
Since the above was written, an opinion has been communicated to
me, that Siwa is the _Siropum_ mentioned by Ptolemy, and that the
building described was probably coëval with the Temple of Jupiter
Ammon, and a dependency thereon[7]. The discovery of that celebrated
fane, therefore, yet remains to reward the toil of the adventurous,
or to baffle the research of the inquisitive. It may still survive
the lapse of ages, yet remain unknown to the Arabs, who traverse
the wide expanse of the desert; but such a circumstance is scarcely
probable. It may be completely overwhelmed in the sand; but this is
hardly within the compass of belief.
CHAP. III.
FROM ALEXANDRIA TO RASHID.
_Abu-kîr — Fertility of the Country — Description of Rashîd
— Journey to Terané — Fué — Deîrut and Demenhûr._
After a month, passed in recovering from the effects of the journey to
the westward, I prepared for leaving Alexandria. For many days boats
could not pass to Rashîd from the contrary winds, and I constantly
preferred going by land, as affording the means of more frequent
and interesting observation. Reports were spread, of the road being
infested by Bedouins; but I chose rather to encounter a slight danger,
than omit seeing what might offer of the country. Accordingly, on the
1st of May, I commenced my journey to Rashîd. We were near four hours
in reaching the village called ابوقير Abu-kîr, on horseback.
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