Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
The road, for about two miles after leaving the gate of Rashîd,
is marked by many vestiges of buildings, but nothing worth
observing. There are also many date trees scattered round in the
neighbourhood of the canal, and vegetation enough to serve for food
for the small flocks of the city. About two miles from Abu-kîr
are the ruins of a town, close to the sea, and a part of them under
water. There are also some remains of columns. This is what has been
remarked as the _Taposiris parva_ of antiquity. Abu-kîr is a village,
consisting of few inhabitants. There is near it, however, a small
port, and on the point of land which forms it, a fortress, but of
little strength. A Tsorbashi resides there, with a few soldiers. He
collects a toll from those who pass the ferry near it. It is a place
of no trade, and vessels that frequent it come there chiefly for the
purpose of avoiding bad weather. We were eight hours and a half in
reaching Rashîd, exclusively of the time taken up in crossing two
ferries. The latter part of the road, from the seaside to Rashîd,
has been all marked with short columns of burned brick, at certain
distances from each other.
The beauty and fertility of the country round Rashîd deserves all
the praise that has been given it. The eye is not, indeed, gratified
with the romantic views, flowing lines, the mixture of plain and
mountain, nor that universal verdure that is to be observed on the
banks of the Rhine or the Danube. But his taste is poor who would
reduce all kinds of picturesque beauty to one criterion. To me, after
being wearied with the sandy dryness of the barren district to the
west, the vegetable soil of Rashîd, filled with every production
necessary for the sustenance, or flattering to the luxury of man,
the rice fields covering the superficies with verdure, the orange
groves exhaling aromatic odours, the date trees formed into an
umbrageous roof over the head; shall I say the mosques and the tombs,
which, though wholly incompatible with the rules of architecture,
yet grave and simple in the structure, are adapted to fill the mind
with pleasing ideas; and above all, the unruffled weight of waters
of the majestic Nile, reluctantly descending to the sea, where its
own vast tide, after pervading and fertilizing so long a tract, is
to be lost in the general mass: these objects filled me with ideas,
which, if not great or sublime, were certainly among the most soothing
and tranquil that have ever affected my mind.
There are some few remains of antiquity in the neighbourhood of
Rashîd, though the city itself be modern. The castle of Abu-Mandûr
stands about two miles from it, higher up the Nile, in a situation
very picturesque, as is seen by many drawings of it extant in
Europe. Columns are frequently dug up here. My arrival at Rashîd
happened in the month Ramadân, a time when it is particularly
cheerful. The populace there are esteemed more quiet, and better
disposed to civility than those of Alexandria or Kahira.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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