Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
The country we passed through, however, is destitute of water, and
consequently barren, as is all that which borders on the lakes. The
only buildings in the neighbourhood are three convents, inhabited by a
few religious of the Coptic church; two of which are about a mile and
half, the third about six miles from the eastern lake. There are some
vestiges of other buildings, which also seem to have been convents
that have long since ceased to exist. The antelope and the ostrich
are seen rarely here, and they appear to be the only wild animals
that frequent that part of the country. No vegetation appears, except
reeds on the margin of the lake, which is very irregular in its form;
so that it is not very easy to say what may be the quantity of ground
covered with water, nor to discern the extremities. It is higher in
winter than in summer; and, at this period, I could no where observe
that the breadth of it exceeded a mile: its length may be nearly four.
The Arabs told me, that the water during the last winter had been
remarkably low. There seem to be marks of its having occasionally
risen about four feet higher than at present; which must greatly
change the appearance of the whole. Towards the end of the summer, it
is said, these lakes are almost dry; and the space that the water has
retired from is then occupied by a thick deposition of salt. Not far
removed from the eastern extremity, a spring rises with some force,
which much agitates the rest of the water. Close to that spring the
depth was far greater than my height, in other parts it was observable
that it did not generally exceed three feet. The thermometer near
this spring stood at 76, while in the open air it was 87. The more
western lake differs not materially from the eastern in size, form,
or productions. The colour of the water in both is an imperfect red,
and where the bottom is visible, it appears almost as if covered with
blood. Salt, to the thickness of five or six inches, lies constantly
in the more shallow parts.
The surface of the earth, near the lake, partakes more or less
generally of the character of natrôn, and, in the parts farthest
removed, offers to the foot the slight resistance of ploughed ground
after a slight frost. The soil is coarse sand. The water of the lake,
on the slightest evaporation, immediately deposits salt. There is a
mountain not far from the lakes, where natrôn is found in insulated
bodies, near the surface, of a much lighter colour than that produced
in the lake, and containing a greater portion of alkali. This kind
more resembles the natrôn of Barbary, and what I have since observed
in the road to Soudân.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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