“The city of Sana,” says Niebuhr, “is situated at the foot of Mount
Nikkum, on which are still to be seen the ruins of a castle, which the
Arabs suppose to have been built by Shem. Near this mountain stands the
citadel; a rivulet rises upon the other side, and near it is the Bostan
el-Metwokkel, a spacious garden, which was laid out by the Imâm of that
name, and has been greatly embellished by the reigning Imâm. The walls
of the city, which are built of bricks, exclude this garden, which is
inclosed within a wall of its own. The city, properly so called, is not
very extensive; one may walk around it in an hour. There are a number of
mosques, some of which have been built by Turkish Pashas. In Sana are
only twelve public baths, but many noble palaces, three of the most
splendid of which have been built by the reigning Imâm. The materials of
these palaces are burnt bricks, and sometimes even hewn stones; but the
houses of the common people are of bricks which have been dried in the
sun.
“The suburb of Bir el-Arsab is nearly adjoining the city on the east
side. The houses of this village are scattered through the gardens,
along the banks of a small river. Fruits are very plenteous; there are
more than twenty kinds of grapes, which, as they do not all ripen at the
same time, continue to afford a delicious refreshment for several months.
The Arabs likewise preserve grapes by hanging them up in their cellars,
and eat them almost through the whole year. Two leagues northward from
Sana is a plain named Rodda, which is overspread with gardens and watered
by a number of rivulets. This place bears a great resemblance to the
neighborhood of Damascus. But Sana, which some ancient authors compare
to Damascus, stands on a rising ground, with nothing like florid
vegetation about it. After long rains, indeed, a small rivulet runs
through the city; but all the ground is dry through the rest of the year.
However, by aqueducts from Mount Nikkum the town and castle of Sana are,
at all times, supplied with abundance of excellent fresh water.”
After a stay of a week the travellers obtained an audience of leave,
fearing that a longer delay might subject them to suspicions and
embarrassments. Two days afterward the Imâm sent each of them a complete
suit of clothes, with a letter to the Emir of Mocha, ordering him to pay
them two hundred crowns as a farewell present. He also furnished them
with camels for the journey. Instead of returning by the same road they
determined to descend from the hill-country to their old headquarters at
Beit el-Fakih, and thence cross the lowland to Mocha.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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