Beyond Damar the country is hilly, but every village is surrounded with
gardens, orchards, and vineyards, which are irrigated from large
artificial reservoirs built at the foot of the hills. On reaching Sana
the travellers were not allowed to enter the city, but conducted to an
unfurnished house without the walls, where they were ordered to wait two
days in entire seclusion, until they could be received by the Imâm.
During this time they were not allowed to be visited by anyone. Niebuhr
thus describes their interview, which took place on the third day:
“The hall of audience was a spacious square chamber, having an arched
roof. In the middle was a large basin, with some _jets d’eau_, rising
fourteen feet in height. Behind the basin, and near the throne, were two
large benches, each a foot and a half high; upon the throne was a space
covered with silken stuff, on which, as well as on both sides of it, lay
large cushions. The Imâm sat between the cushions, with his legs crossed
in the Eastern fashion; his gown was of a bright green color, and had
large sleeves. Upon each side of his breast was a rich filleting of gold
lace, and on his head he wore a great white turban. His sons sat on his
right hand, and his brothers on the left. Opposite to them, on the
highest of the two benches, sat the Vizier, and our place was on the
lower bench.
“We were first led up to the Imâm, and were permitted to kiss both the
back and the palm of his hand, as well as the hem of his robe. It is an
extraordinary favor when the Mohammedan princes permit any person to kiss
the palm of the hand. There was a solemn silence through the whole hall.
As each of us touched the Imâm’s hand a herald still proclaimed, ‘God
preserve the Imâm!’ and all who were present repeated these words after
him. I was thinking at the time how I should pay my compliments in
Arabic, and was not a little disturbed by this noisy ceremony.
“We did not think it proper to mention the true reason of our expedition
through Arabia; but told the Imâm that, wishing to travel by the shortest
ways to the Danish colonies, in the East Indies, we had heard so much of
the plenty and security which prevailed through his dominions, that we
had resolved to see them with our own eyes, so that we might describe
them to our countrymen. The Imâm told us we were welcome to his
dominions, and might stay as long as we pleased. After our return home
he sent to each of us a small purse containing ninety-nine _komassis_,
two and thirty of which make a crown. This piece of civility might,
perhaps, appear no compliment to a traveller’s delicacy. But, when it is
considered that a stranger, unacquainted with the value of the money of
the country, obliged to pay every day for his provisions, is in danger of
being imposed upon by the money-changers, this care of providing us with
small money will appear to have been sufficiently obliging.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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