Burckhardt reached Cairo in safety, and after vainly waiting some months
for an opportunity of joining a caravan to Fezzan, determined to employ
his time in making a visit to Upper Egypt and Nubia. Travelling alone,
with a single guide, he succeeded in reaching the frontiers of Dongola,
beyond which it was then impossible to proceed. He therefore returned to
Assouan, and joined a small caravan, which crossed the Nubian Desert to
Ethiopia, by very nearly the same route which Bruce had taken in
returning from Abyssinia. He remained some time at Shendy, the capital
of Ethiopia, and then, after a journey of three months across the country
of Takka, which had never before been visited by a European, reached the
port of Suakin, on the Red Sea. Here he embarked for Jedda, in Arabia,
where he arrived in July, 1814.
By this time his Moslem character had been so completely acquired that he
felt himself free from suspicion. Accordingly he decided to remain and
take part in the pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, which was to take place
that year, in November. His funds, however, were nearly exhausted, and
the Jedda merchants refused to honor an old letter of credit upon Cairo,
which he still carried with him. In this emergency he wrote to the
Armenian physician of Mohammed Ali, who was at that time with the Pasha
at the city of Tayf (or Tayef), about seventy miles southeast of Mecca.
Mohammed Ali happening to hear of this application, immediately sent a
messenger with two dromedaries, to summon Burckhardt to visit him. It
seems most probable that the Pasha suspected the traveller of being an
English spy, and wished to examine him personally. The guide had orders
to conduct the latter to Tayf by a circuitous route, instead of by the
direct road through Mecca.
Burckhardt set out without the least hesitation, taking care to exhibit
no suspicion of the Pasha’s object, and no desire to see the holy city.
But the guide himself proposed that they should pass through Mecca in
order to save travel; the journey was hurried, however, and only a rapid
observation was possible. Pushing eastward, they reached, on the third
night, the Mountain of Kora, which divides the territory of Mecca from
that of Tayf. Burckhardt was astonished at the change in the scenery,
produced by the greater elevation of the interior of Arabia above the
sea. His description is a striking contrast to that of the scenery about
Mecca.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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